Dealer says no to Synthetic oil?

[Guest Dandy1]

I have am 06 RSV and a friend of mine just bought a new 07 RSV from a dealer in Stillwater Ok. I bought my bike from a dealer in Broken Arrow, Ok. and they told me Synthetic oil was just fine to use after the first 4000 miles. The dealer in Stillwater told my friend they don't recommend Synthetic oil at all in RSV. I have always used Amsoil motorcycle 10W40 in my bikes and have never had anything but good results. Does anyone no of a reason why we should not use Synthetic oil in our RSV?

Thanks for your help,

Dandy1

[Tom]

My Dealer here in Texas area that I bought from sells Amsoil and another brand and Recommends it. Alot of people that know nothing but Dino oil do not understand the benefits of synthetics. Tom

[Redneck]

Synthetic is just fine as long as it is motorcycle specific or none energy conserving.

[Guest Old Iron Rider]

The question to ask the dealer is: Does it void the warrenty if I use it? If not then use whatever trips your trigger. And just document and change it at the recommended times.

[Tartan Terror]

Synthetic is fine as long as its Motorcycle specific. Regular car oil has friction modifiers which will cause your clutch to slip. Out clutches are wet clutches and are saturated with oil. Motorcycle specific oil (Dino and Synthetic) dont have friction modifiers in it and wont promote the clutch to slip. I will only use Synthetic as heat wont break it down so easy. I prefer Amsoil but I will also use the Spectro Golden 4 if Amsoil is not available.

[bongobobny]

Generally new engines require a certain period of wear to break in and seat properly. This is normal and expected. Therefore myself I avoid using synthetics, which can actually lubricate too good, for the first 10K to 20K of any engine.

[BuddyRich]

Since when do dealers know anything about motorcycles. They only know how to sell stuff.. :rotf:

 

 

 

[paperboy]

I've used Mobil 1 15-50 non specific car oil in both of my bikes, 05 1100 silverado and 07 RSV and have never had a problem, 25000 miles between both bikes. Dealer told me he uses regular car oil also (mobil 1), only difference between bike specific and car oil is about 4 bucks a gallon. Great marketing ploy! He pushes Amsoil for his customers and Mobil 1 in private to friends and aquaintances. I've known the guy for twenty years and he's always been straight with me. I guess you go with what makes you feel better.

[juggler]

I've used Mobil 1 15-50 non specific car oil in both of my bikes, 05 1100 silverado and 07 RSV and have never had a problem, 25000 miles between both bikes. Dealer told me he uses regular car oil also (mobil 1), only difference between bike specific and car oil is about 4 bucks a gallon. Great marketing ploy! He pushes Amsoil for his customers and Mobil 1 in private to friends and aquaintances. I've known the guy for twenty years and he's always been straight with me. I guess you go with what makes you feel better.

 

There is so much that is wrong with that statement. This is straight from the owners manual.

 

"In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition do not use oils labeled "Energy Conserving II" or higher."

 

Most of the car oils I've seen are the Energy Conserving type oils. These WILL cause clutch slippage.

 

The Amsoil motorcycle synthetic worked great for me this past year.

[stardbog]

Same story from my dealer. BS. Amsoil 10-40 Motorcycle oil in both of my bikes, all year round. Start using Syntetic in my Stratoliner Since 1st oil change (600 Mil.)next will be around 4K and after that every 5-6000 Miles. wan't hurt engine as long is motorcycle specific.

[Guest muskrat]

Got an '01 RSV and have used Amsoil almost exclusively after 1st year. No problems at all.

[captnmidnight]

My dealer told me when i took posession of my bike(07 midnight rsv) to never put synthetic in them., cause of clutch slippage. He said he learned the hard way on his. This was from Masons yamaha in Effingham Il. Ben is the owner and that is what he said. he experienced severe cluth slippage after several wks.:no-no-no::no-no-no:

[bikerscape]

I had that same conversation with the dealer in BA. They said the only time they have seen clutch issues is with any type of synthetic including blends. Even with the right designations -- or lack thereof.

 

They were pretty convincing in you do this and you get that...premature failure. Hard to argue when they are saying it's everyday repair experience. YMMV

[Gentleman George]

OK, Whats anyones opion about "SLICK 50" or polytetrafloraetholene (ptf) in my bike.

I've used it in every one of my cars for 30 years with no problems ever.

[Gentleman George]

My dealer told me when i took posession of my bike(07 midnight rsv) to never put synthetic in them., cause of clutch slippage. He said he learned the hard way on his. This was from Masons yamaha in Effingham Il. Ben is the owner and that is what he said. he experienced severe cluth slippage after several wks.:no-no-no::no-no-no:

OK, I think this answers my question for me about putting it in my bike.. I would recomend putting PTF in your car....

[juggler]

My dealer told me when i took posession of my bike(07 midnight rsv) to never put synthetic in them., cause of clutch slippage. He said he learned the hard way on his. This was from Masons yamaha in Effingham Il. Ben is the owner and that is what he said. he experienced severe cluth slippage after several wks.:no-no-no::no-no-no:

 

 

He obviously used the wrong synthetic. I've run Amsoil all this year with no problems. The only time my clutch slipped is when I made the mistake of putting car oil in with friction modifiers. That made my old weak clutch fail real fast. I rebuilt the clutch and put in motorcycle specific Amsoil and had no problems.

[juggler]

OK, Whats anyones opion about "SLICK 50" or polytetrafloraetholene (ptf) in my bike.

I've used it in every one of my cars for 30 years with no problems ever.

 

Read my post above about the owners manual saying to stay clear of chemical additives. My guess is Slick 50 falls in that category and will make your clutch very slick as well.

[Guest DragonSlayer]

OK, Whats anyones opion about "SLICK 50" or polytetrafloraetholene (ptf) in my bike.

I've used it in every one of my cars for 30 years with no problems ever.

 

 

 

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.shtm

[Guest KitCarson]

Personally as I am past my teenage years and do like to save energy when I can, I prefer energy conserving oil!!:stirthepot::rotfl: Kit

[CrazyHorse]

There is so much that is wrong with that statement. This is straight from the owners manual.

 

"In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition do not use oils labeled "Energy Conserving II" or higher."

 

Most of the car oils I've seen are the Energy Conserving type oils. These WILL cause clutch slippage.

 

The Amsoil motorcycle synthetic worked great for me this past year.

 

Mobil 15w-50 is not energy conserving.

[yamahamer]

There is so much that is wrong with that statement. This is straight from the owners manual.

 

"In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition do not use oils labeled "Energy Conserving II" or higher."

 

Most of the car oils I've seen are the Energy Conserving type oils. These WILL cause clutch slippage.

 

The Amsoil motorcycle synthetic worked great for me this past year.

NOT ALL MOBIL 1 OILS ARE "ENERGY CONSERVING" I USE CLEAN 5000 10W40 THE 10W30 IS ENERGY CONSERVING. IHAVE USED THIS OIL FOR THE PAST 4 YEARS WITH NO CLUTCH SLIP AND NO CHIRPS. I WOULD USE THE MOBIL 1 BIKE OIL IF I COULD FIND IT BUT IT'S RARE IN THE SOUTH.

[Pilot]

Nothing wrong with synthetic oil formulated for motorcycles. I used it in my 03 for over 40k with no problems.

 

 

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MIXING AMSOIL

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[dynodon]

DO NOT use slick 50, they even got sued by the government because they lied in their ads! BAd stuff for cars or bikes.

 

Also, it is not true that engines won't 'break in" on synthetic. Every corvette for the past decade or more is built with a first fill of Mobil 1. I think the same with most high end German cars. Engines will break in just fine on synthetic.

 

I know an excellent mechanic that otherwise is logical and sane, but he is so off-base on synthetic that we just agree not to talk about it. He has worked on my cars many times, I just don't talk to him about oil.!

 

There are so many "old mechanics tales" about synthetic that I won't go into here, but as an Amsoil dealer myself, I did the research and like their lubricants very much. Did the research before buying the first quart. As a dealer I pay about K-Mart Mobil 1 price for Amsoil.

 

Also, about warranties, there is a law that says a manufacturer can't void a warranty because you don't use their own "brand" of oil/parts. As long as the oil meets the specifications, they can't say squat about you using it. Doesn't stop some of them from trying though.

[Guest cdvogan]

Rumor has it that Yamaha now has a synthetic oil under their name so wait and see what the dealer says after stocking it! Amsoil in all my vehicles for the past 8 years.... no problem with the bikes or the cages!

 

Cliff

[Guest Provoker]

Hi guys:

That is the question I asked an oil salesman some years ago when I was maintenance supervisor in a manufacturing plant.

He told me that natural oils have molecules of all different sizes, and that the largest molecules carry the load first, until they break down, and then the next largest molecules carry the load until they break down, and on and on until all the oil is only the smallest molecules in a sea of broken down oil.

Synthetic oil is simply oil in which the molecules are all the same size, and therefore it gives much more support to the load, and does not break down.

Think of it this way; when you put oil on a piece of flat iron and rub it with a flat honing stone, the stone will grind off any high points on the iron in spite of the oil, because the high points on the iron are bigger than the oil molecules. Once the high points on the iron are ground off to the thickness of the oil molecules, then the stone will glide on top of the oil and not touch the iron. In the case of natural oil between two moving smooth pieces of metal, the high spots are the large molecules in oil, and they will naturally be broken down by the shear weight of the load, until the smallest molecules are the only ones left carrying the load.

If all the molecules of oil are the same size to begin with, the two smooth pieces of metal will be better supported by the oil, for a much longer length of time, without any broken down oil molecules to dilute the the oil.

Now that may be a simplistic explanation of what synthetic oil is and how it works, but it suggests to me that it could not possibly hurt, and could only help, in any situation in which natural oil is commonly used.

The lubrication oil business is very competitive, and every extra process or additive will increase the retail price, and that is why all the additives are after market, for the oils that everyone can afford to buy.