Charging again!

[a1bummer]

After spending a good deal of my summer trying to figure out why my VR wasn't charging, and now that the riding season is over, I finally got her to charge properly again. I should have gone with what my first gut instinct told me and replaced the stator right from the start. I went through a flow chart I found somewhere on here to try and figure out where the problem was before tearing into the engine. I had stripped it down to the frame and pulled all the wiring to check and clean all the connections. I cut out the connector and hardwired the stator to the rectifier. But according to everything in the flowchart, the stator and rectifier were both fine and the problem had to be somewhere in the wiring. I finally cut the connections between the stator and rectifier and tested the stator again. The stator was definately the problem. Unless I'm illiterate or something, nowhere in the flowchart did it tell me that I needed to disconnect anything before testing it. My gut was telling me to do one thing but the books and flowcharts seemed to be telling be something else. I've worked on cages all my life but seldomly ever on bikes, so I was trying to follow the books as closely as possible. I realize noe that I've got it fixed that of course I would get false reading with everything plugged in. The power from the battery would feed back through all the wires and give me the false readings. I guess the books and such took it for cranted that I would just know to unplug things first. But then there are alot of things you have to leave plugged in to get an accurate reading. How was I to know?

 

So to make a long story short, unplug the stator and rectifier before you test them in order to get an accurate reading.

[rhncue]

After spending a good deal of my summer trying to figure out why my VR wasn't charging, and now that the riding season is over, I finally got her to charge properly again. I should have gone with what my first gut instinct told me and replaced the stator right from the start. I went through a flow chart I found somewhere on here to try and figure out where the problem was before tearing into the engine. I had stripped it down to the frame and pulled all the wiring to check and clean all the connections. I cut out the connector and hardwired the stator to the rectifier. But according to everything in the flowchart, the stator and rectifier were both fine and the problem had to be somewhere in the wiring. I finally cut the connections between the stator and rectifier and tested the stator again. The stator was definately the problem. Unless I'm illiterate or something, nowhere in the flowchart did it tell me that I needed to disconnect anything before testing it. My gut was telling me to do one thing but the books and flowcharts seemed to be telling be something else. I've worked on cages all my life but seldomly ever on bikes, so I was trying to follow the books as closely as possible. I realize noe that I've got it fixed that of course I would get false reading with everything plugged in. The power from the battery would feed back through all the wires and give me the false readings. I guess the books and such took it for cranted that I would just know to unplug things first. But then there are alot of things you have to leave plugged in to get an accurate reading. How was I to know?

 

So to make a long story short, unplug the stator and rectifier before you test them in order to get an accurate reading.

 

The repair manual says:

1. Remove the required fairing.

2. Disconnect the stator coil leads from the voltage regulator and connect the pocket tester as shown. If the resistance does not equal the specified value, the stator coil is defective and should be replaced.

 

There are also pictures showing the procedure.

 

Dick

[Dragonslayer]

The repair manual says:

1. Remove the required fairing.

2. Disconnect the stator coil leads from the voltage regulator and connect the pocket tester as shown. If the resistance does not equal the specified value, the stator coil is defective and should be replaced.

 

There are also pictures showing the procedure.

 

Dick

Yes but doing this test does not fail a bad stator because the way the stator fails the resistance shows good when the stator can be bad. I just went through the same thing that a1bummer went through to discover that the stator was bad and replacing it corrected the problem. The better way to check stator is to check ac voltage output from stator while running. and see if all three phases of stator are within 1 AC volt of each other.