Bike not running right - HELP PLEASE!

[footsie]

Have you checked the intake manifold, mine cracked on the right side and would not run properly, glued the crackes with epoxy glue and the bike went back to running right.

 

Gregg

[HGWT]

I got mine back from the dealer yesterday. Heres the skinny. The pilot screws (jets) were plugged up. Complete carb overhaul, new plugs, ega carb setting, and carb synch, undoing the Jason mod, hooking the AIS back up, $238 parts and labor. Having my bike running like new again PRICELESS.......................!

[GeorgeS]

Well they have to be accessable, Thats why they were put there.

The idea is to be able to drain the bowls, as regular maintenance.

 

Before you rip and tear anything, Put One Can of SEA Foam in about 1/2 tank of gas. And get as much run time as possible on the engine, now mater how it runs.

 

Run it several times a day, for 4 or 5 days, then re-evaluate the situation.

 

That Might Fix it, and you don't have to tear anything apart.

 

Sombody, must know, how to access the Drain Screws on a 2nd Gen !!

 

Its Easy on a 1st Gen.

 

Like I said, they are put there to Use, they have to be accessible !!

Who knows how to get to them on a 2nd Gen ?????

 

Speak Up !! Folks, Somebody Knows

[Squidley]

Here are some pics of the drain bolts for the G2. I just went out and took my tank off to get the shots. 1 word of warning is that you will want to put a rag between the cylinders as there are no drain tubes. I dont know if you can slide some tubes on them as I haven't tried that.

[tazmocycle]

i posted this on another thread of a rstd not running good, after you get it running you may want to try this!!

on another royal star forum, we do what we call a "techron flush" to our bikes to keep the carbon from building up and causing running problems. go to walmart and get a bottle of techron additive and add it to a full tank of gas or close to it. take your bike on a good hard run on the interstate if possible and run out the whole tank of gas or most of it. try to keep the revs up and not run in 5th gear(it won't hurt these engines!) if it the first time you do it and you have a lot of miles, your bike may spit and sput and blow out black soot and sparks. when you get home you will need to change the oil because there will be a lot of carbon in it. i usually do this near a oil chance time and about ever 3rd oil change. the guy who can up with this has a 96 royal with near 200,000 miles on his bike. he's glen fritzgearld, starrider96-starrider05 from ga. hope this helps ya'll out with keeping your bike running it's best, don.

because these bikes are detuned from what they are capable of doing they tend to build up carbon worst than any bike i have ever owned. a friend of mine that works at a yamaha dealership told me that some of the roadies have the same troubles.

[GeorgeS]

Thanks much for that Information !!!

 

I will do that on my next ride. If it ever stops raining in Seattle !!!!

 

I sure have been getting a lot of other things done, but no rideing---

[BuddyRich]

Dang Brad, You need to take that thing out and get it dirty

 

 

[Yamaman]

Here are some pics of the drain bolts for the G2. I just went out and took my tank off to get the shots. 1 word of warning is that you will want to put a rag between the cylinders as there are no drain tubes. I dont know if you can slide some tubes on them as I haven't tried that.

 

Thank you, Thank you! A picture IS worth a thousand words! The picture in the service manual that I was looking at showed a phillips head screw, so I wasn't looking for an allen head. But now I see both the screw and the drain pipe. It does look like a section of tubing could be slipped onto the drain pipe, but it's so danged tight that I can't even get my smallish hands in far enough to do it.

 

I'm still working on the Sea-Foam soak, so I don't want to drain them unless I have to. But now I know how to do it if I need to.

 

Thanks again!

 

[Squidley]

Dang Brad, You need to take that thing out and get it dirty

 

 

Funny guy you are Buddy! It's colder than you know where and it looks like it will be a long time before I get back on the scoot

 

I'm glad the pics helped and I do hope you get all this straitened out soon Yamaman

PS. If you dont have a set of long handled needle nose pliers, do yourself a favor and go to Harbor Freight and buy a set. They will be the best investment you ever make for working on these bikes.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38598

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33202

[Cougar]

Have you tried to run the bike with the gas cap off yet

in the garage?

 

Mine stopped running like that last year, come to find

out that my vent to the tank was totally clogged.

 

The bike would stop running.. if I removed the

cap she ran just fine. so I cleared out the metal

vent to to tank. no problems since...just a thought.

Jeff

[Yamaman]

Well, I'm just about to give up! I have:

 

put in fresh plugs

put in fresh gas

replaced fuel filter

soaked carbs in Sea-Foam for 2 1/2 days

 

Took quite a while to get all that Sea-Foam through the system. (long fuel lines) Smoked like a mutha for a while, but now it's burning gas again. Starts fine with choke on. Idles OK, although never revving up to the level it used to when choke is on. But as soon as I try to give it any throttle at all, it dies. If I try to gradually push the choke off... it dies. I've monkeyed with the idle screw, but if I try to turn it too high, it sputters. I'm out of ideas.

 

And on top of all this, now I have two new problems. I now have a slight drip (green) of what I assume is coolant from the left side of the long narrow cover sitting in between the pistons. I guess this is a cover over the water pump maybe? Something to do with the cooling system from what I can tell in the service manual and parts diagrams. It appears there is a gasket (rubber?) in between the two pieces of the cover, so I guess that blew.

 

And the last item, there appears to be exhaust gas coming out from under the valve cover on the right rear piston. I realize there is an exhaust pipe right below there, but I looked real close and the smoke really looks like it's coming out from right below the valve cover, and not from the pipe/manifold.

 

So... Anybody want to buy a great looking 2001 RSV in need of a bit of work? .....Just kidding.

[93 venture]

Was any of the spark plugs wet from gas when you took them out?You might want to check each cylinder and make sure you have spark at each one.

[GeorgeS]

Did you completly!!! Drain the Fuel tank ??

 

Do that, then Drain the Carb bowls.

 

You have to make sure you are getting Flow, thru All 4 Carbs.

 

Remove fuel line From the Petcock, and DRAIN THE TANK, COMPLETLY.

 

Start over with all new Fuel

 

I know you don't want to do that, but do it anyway !!!!

[eazyduzzit]

If it will idle with the choke, but not without and dies when you twist the throttle it can't be getting enough gas. When you twist the throttle it's getting more air but not more gas and it dies.

I don't understand why this happened after you and your son rebuilt the slave cyl. There isn't a connection that I'm aware of.

[BuddyRich]

The anti freeze leak is probably coming from behind the false heads. Remove them and you should see the drip path. There's a couple of small plugs that the false heads push in on. I used some duck tape on them and the extra thickness of just one layer of duck tape was enough to stop the leak.

 

How far out are is the carb sync ?

[Yamaman]

If it will idle with the choke, but not without and dies when you twist the throttle it can't be getting enough gas. When you twist the throttle it's getting more air but not more gas and it dies.

I don't understand why this happened after you and your son rebuilt the slave cyl. There isn't a connection that I'm aware of.

 

I agree. The only connection is that the bike sat for six weeks waiting for the clutch repair.

[Yamaman]

Did you completly!!! Drain the Fuel tank ??

 

Do that, then Drain the Carb bowls.

 

You have to make sure you are getting Flow, thru All 4 Carbs.

 

Remove fuel line From the Petcock, and DRAIN THE TANK, COMPLETLY.

 

Start over with all new Fuel

 

I know you don't want to do that, but do it anyway !!!!

 

OK, OK, I'll drain the bowls. Only reason I didn't do it today was I couldn't get at the allen head screw with my tools at hand, and I was rushed cause I had to go into my office this afternoon. Darned jobs, they tend to get in the way sometimes.

 

As far as the tank goes, yes, I drained it and the flow from the petcock seemed to be fine. No indication of a problem with it being clogged.

[Yamaman]

The anti freeze leak is probably coming from behind the false heads. Remove them and you should see the drip path. There's a couple of small plugs that the false heads push in on. I used some duck tape on them and the extra thickness of just one layer of duck tape was enough to stop the leak.

 

How far out are is the carb sync ?

 

Thanks. I'll check to see if the leak might be behind the false heads.

 

No idea how far off the sync may be. My plan was to take it somewhere to get it synced once I got it running.

[GeorgeS]

Thanks. I'll check to see if the leak might be behind the false heads.

 

No idea how far off the sync may be. My plan was to take it somewhere to get it synced once I got it running.

 

Do the carb drain proceedure 2 or 3 times over about 5 days. Get as much Engine Run time as possible, no matter how its running.

 

when you get it going good enough, to drive, try to get some miles on it, with engine running at high RPM. More miles is better.

 

Keep a dose of at least 1/2 can of SEA-FOAM per tank of gas, or Valvoline, Synthetic Fuel Injector Cleaner. ( thats also very good Stuff !!!!!! )

 

After all this, try to get the Plugs Replaced Also !!

[Yamaman]

Do the carb drain proceedure 2 or 3 times over about 5 days. Get as much Engine Run time as possible, no matter how its running.

 

when you get it going good enough, to drive, try to get some miles on it, with engine running at high RPM. More miles is better.

 

Keep a dose of at least 1/2 can of SEA-FOAM per tank of gas, or Valvoline, Synthetic Fuel Injector Cleaner. ( thats also very good Stuff !!!!!! )

 

After all this, try to get the Plugs Replaced Also !!

George, and everyone else,

 

Thanks for sticking with me for so long. This has been a very long and frustrating process. :thumbdown:I did the carb drain today, and a significant amount of gas came out of only two of the carbs. Very little if anything out of the other two, which leads me to believe the only way I'm going to get this running is to pull the carbs, which I don't have much desire to do myself. I just don't have the confidance that I'll get it done right or put back together properly if I go that far. I've spent so much time already that it seems I would be better off to try and get it in to a mechanic to make sure it gets done right. (I guess) I'll give it some thought over the holidays (I'll be out of town) and let you know if I change my mind.

 

Once again, I REALLY DO APPRECIATE all the help you guys have given me. I've learned a lot about my bike and I am grateful for that. Keep up the great work here.

[BuddyRich]

Last resort.

Spray a bunch of Deep Creep (seafoam in a spray) in to the carb drain holes.Sounds like the floats are stuck closed. If you can make some kinda little rubber stopper and insert the spray tube (like a wd40 spray tube) thru it and then spray it up into the carb bowl a couple of times it may help. Can't hurt and it would be a lot cheaper than a mech if it fixes it

[Yamaman]

Last resort.

Spray a bunch of Deep Creep (seafoam in a spray) in to the carb drain holes.Sounds like the floats are stuck closed. If you can make some kinda little rubber stopper and insert the spray tube (like a wd40 spray tube) thru it and then spray it up into the carb bowl a couple of times it may help. Can't hurt and it would be a lot cheaper than a mech if it fixes it

 

Well there's something new to think about over my holiday. Don't know if those spray tubes would be long enough. Given the angle of the drain, I'd have to come at each one from the other side, but it's worth a try. I have a can of aerosol carb cleaner. would that work if I could get it in there?

 

Thanks.

[BuddyRich]

Probably. If its from varnish build up. The Deep Creep has a penetrent in it much like liquid wrench.The trick is going to be getting it in and to stay for a little while. Maybe some small heatshrink tubing on the end of the carb clean tube. shrink it to fit the carb cleaner tube. Don't know what effects the cleaner will have on the heatshrink but it should not be too much. One way to test when your done is to turn on the key with the drain plugs out of the ones that didn't fill up. You should start getting gas. Best done outside so you don't blow something up if you did fix it.

[1BigDog]

Yamaman, sounds like your problems are dirty carbs, like most suggested.

 

You may want to check out this thread:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24175 It may help ya. Also it sounds like your getting a bit frustrated. When that happens its time to walk away from the bike until YOU feel ready to work on it. I made some of my biggest errors while trying to fix something while stressed out. Heck, my charging system took me months to figure out but I had plenty of good help here. Good luck.

[GeorgeS]

Sorry to hear that, However, Keep trying to run the engine for 10 to 20 min a day. And Check the Draining on the Two Carbs, that Did NOT Drain Today.

 

---- THE MAGIC SEA-FOAM, JUST MIGHT FREE UP THE FLOAT VALVES, GIVEN A FEW MORE DAYS OF SOAKING !!!

 

It has worked for others, I would say give it at least 4 or 5 more days before you give up.