Bike not running right - HELP PLEASE!

[Yamaman]

OK, this may take a while, but I'm going to start at the beginning and try not to miss anything, cause I'm not sure what may be important, and what isn't.

 

Early this summer I was having some problems losing clutch fluid on my 2001 RSV. I kept topping off the master cylinder, but eventually I realized that it was leaking from the slave cylinder and ordered a rebuild kit. I ended up letting the bike sit for about 6 weeks before I had a chance to get together with my son (my semi-pro wrench) who lives in CA. We did the rebuild, got everything put back together, and wheeled it out of the garage to fire it up and take it for a test ride.

 

It started right up, but after a short time running, I backed off the choke and it died. Started it again and the same thing. In spite of being plenty warmed up, it wouldn't run with the choke off. So I thought just a few cobwebs in the carbs, I'll take it for a run and blow 'em out. Well, in spite of running it for a mile or so through the neighborhood it never was able to run without the choke on. I wasn't sure what to do next, so I just parked it. Schedules were busy, one thing led to another and before long - it was November!!!

 

Summers in Houston aren't the greatest time for riding, but this fall we've had some awesome weather, so I decided it was time to get the scoot running again. The battery had gone dead and would no longer take a charge, so I replaced it. (and purchased a Battery Tender) I figured maybe the air filters could use a look (why in the heck do they make them so hard to get to!!!) so I pulled them, and found that on one the plastic base had warped and had separated from the paper filter. Very bad! There were even a couple of leaves caught in it. No telling how much crud may have passed through and into the carbs. I replaced them with a new set of K&N's.

 

Next I removed the tank and pulled the air boxes above the carbs. Nothing too obvious, but with no real desire to pull the carbs off, I decided to just spray them down real good with carb cleaner and put it all back together to see what I had. Putting those boxes back on it was another PITA! You can't see most of the boots and I'm really not sure I got them all seated properly over the carbs.

 

Anyway, I went ahead and hooked up the tank and fired her up. Pretty much the same as before, or worse. It starts and runs with the choke on, but it never fully warms up to that higher revving state that it's supposed to reach with the choke on. If I turn the choke off it dies, and if I even begin to move the throttle, it also dies.

 

And also, before I started all this I poured a full can of Sea-Foam into about 2/3rds of a tank of gas. My next thought is to look for the fuel filter to replace that. Any yes, the fuel pump clicks when I turn on the ignition and seems to be functioning. It will run at a low idle for as long as I want with the choke on.

 

Like I said, I'm not really comfortable pulling the carbs off of the bike myself, so does anyone have any suggestions for a barely competent wrench, or should I just load her up and take her in to a pro?

 

All ideas appreciated.

[BuddyRich]

Try some Seafoam. Turn the gas off and pull the fuel line from the bottom of the tank. Stick it into a can of seafoam and let it run till it starts smoking from sucking up the seafoam. Re connect the fuel line and turn the gas back on.Shut it down and let it sit all night. Start it back up in the morning and run it till it stops smoking. This may clean out the carbs enough that you won't have to pull them.

[bikerkwatt]

Also check all the small hoses coming off air boxes above the carbs going back down to air filter boxes.I have an 05 that was acting a little like that also and there was mud worm nest in the hoses.Cleaned them out and ran like new.Missed a trip to Colorado

because of that little bugger .

 

 

Kilowatt

BACA Texas

[SaltyDawg]

Have you turned the idle up? Is it spitting and sputtering while you are riding down the road, or is it running fine?

[Yamaman]

Have you turned the idle up? Is it spitting and sputtering while you are riding down the road, or is it running fine?

 

Won't ride down the road at all. If I even think about moving the throttle, it dies. All it will do is idle with the choke fully on.

 

I have monkeyed around some with the idle adjustment screw. Service manual is unclear about which direction to turn it. I have turned it fairly significantly in both directions with little to no effect. Also, as I read the manual, it seems that idle really should only be adjusted with the choke off and the bike in good running order, which mine is clearly not.

[GeorgeS]

You might have bad gas, or water in tank, Completly Drain the Tank.

 

Also open the Drain SCREW on EACH Carb. and Drain the bowls.

 

Now with Fresh gas, and more Sea Foam, do the CARB Drain every day for several days.

 

And try to get as much run time as possible .

 

You might also need to replace the Plugs, in a few days if you can get some run time on it.

 

Make sure the Caps are Installed on the Vaccume Ports on each INTake Manifold.

[Squidley]

I'll throw this out, make sure all your vacuume hoses are connected and in good shape. Check the rubber caps on the intake manifolds and the 2 hoses that go to the # 2 & 3 cylinders, turning the idle up too for now so you can check the carb sync.

[mountainhorsega]

I used to have an chevy that absolutely would not run without the choke. I tried everything fuel related, then realized the thermostat was stuck OPEN. IT couldn't warm up enough to run. I doubt if it applies but might be worth a look. Don't know how hot these things need to be to run:think:

[RedRider]

Check for vacuum leaks around all the little hoses. While idling, take some carb cleaner and spray around the hoses. You should hear a change in idle if there is a vacuum leak.

 

And another easy test, check to see your petcock is not clogged. Take off the fuel exit (after turning off the petcock), attach a short hose to the fuel exit and run it to a jar. Turn on the fuel petcock and make sure fuel runs freely. Unlikely this is the problem, but it is easy to check. If the petcock has a severe restriction, this would cause your described problem.

 

And another thought - fuel pump pressure. I don't expect this to be the problem since low fuel pump pressure would still fill the bowls on the carbs and allow you to run for a while, not to die immediately upon twisting the throttle.

 

Good luck and make sure to let us know what you find.

 

RR

[N3FOL]

Won't ride down the road at all. If I even think about moving the throttle, it dies. All it will do is idle with the choke fully on.

 

I have monkeyed around some with the idle adjustment screw. Service manual is unclear about which direction to turn it. I have turned it fairly significantly in both directions with little to no effect. Also, as I read the manual, it seems that idle really should only be adjusted with the choke off and the bike in good running order, which mine is clearly not.

 

When I adjusted my adle with a clamp meter, I turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise to increase idle and counter-clockwise to decrease idle.

[Jerry M]

If you ran the bikevery long with the choke on you might have the plugs fouled out and the bike will not run for nothing.Just my thought. Jerry M

[93 venture]

If you ran the bikevery long with the choke on you might have the plugs fouled out and the bike will not run for nothing.Just my thought. Jerry M

 

This is what i was thinking also,pull the plugs and put in a new set.It dont take much to gas foul the spark plugs.

[N3FOL]

That is a good tip. I was not even aware that spark plugs will be fouled, if the choke is left pulled for too long and not ride with it pulled out.

 

Sounds like Yamaman's bike may just need new gas and more ride time.

[Adams99]

I would check for a vacuum leak or a loose spark plug wire. If that doesn't work, replace the spark plugs; bikes are very fickle when it comes to fowling a plug. The spark plug may look fine, but will not run. I wouldn't go and start changing the idle or fuel mixture right away. I would save that as a last resort. They maybe off some, but I dought enough for it to run that crappy. Just my Good luck to ya.

[N3FOL]

It may also be a good idea to go ahead and synch the carbs. When I first did mine, I was deliberately making the carbs out of synch just to see how it sounds and it idled real bad and sometimes had a low or high rpm.

[Yamaman]

OK, Thanks for all the posts. After a thorough review and combination of the various suggestions, I have come up with the following listing of procedures, to be performed in this order:

 

 

• Drain the gas tank, insuring petcock is not clogged, and replace with fresh fuel.
  
• Replace the spark plugs
  
• Replace the fuel filter
  
• Check rubber caps on intake manifolds and hoses to #2 and #3 cylinders. Check all vacuum lines while idling by spraying with carb cleaner and listening for a change in the idle.
  
• Assuming all this doesn’t fix the problem, then perform the carb drain procedure, and/or the soaking with straight Sea-Foam procedure.
  

 

If none of this works I will probably have to consult a professional (dang!) As far as the suggestion to sych the carbs, I figured I would have to take it to a mechanic to have that done anyway, once I got it at least running myself.

 

Thanks and I'll keep you informed of my results.

[HGWT]

Sounds exactly like the problem I had. I did everything others are here telling you to do. I fixed mine by taking it to the dealer and having a complete carb overhaul, carb synch, and ega setting. Mine is a 2000 with 62K miles. It had sat for 8 months while I recovered from bypass surgery. Get your checkbook ready & say Merry Christmas to you!

[StarFan]

I have come up with the following listing of procedures, to be performed in this order:

 

 

• Drain the gas tank, insuring petcock is not clogged, and replace with fresh fuel
  

When you drain the tank make sure you also drain the carbs as well as the fuel sitting in the fuel filter container. Then before filling up with fresh gas fill upp the fuel filter container with Seafoam. The Seafoam then go through the carbs before the fresh fuel hits them and at least clean some of the stuff that might be sitting in the carbs. If you only drain the old gas and fill up with new and then run the motor then you might experience no change if clogged carbs are the problem or a part of the problem. By doing it this way then you are tackling two problems at once - that is - clogged carbs as well as bad fuel.

Just my two cents worth or the way I would do it.

Wish you luck and keep us posted on the result.

[Nashbird]

Recently had the exact problem, bike would only run with choke on. I wound up pulling the main fuel line "which feeds the carbs" and ran hose into a jar. For some reason It was like I had to prime the fuel pump. After two or three attempts of turning the key on and off, the fuel pump began moving fuel. I then reconnect to carbs and was able to move on to the next phase. Again same issues with running poorly, bike sat for 6 to 9 months. Did the seafoam enima and currently about halfway through a tank of fresh gas/seafoam mix. Bike is slowly coming back to life but honestly with only about half of tank burned.... it's about 85% there.

[BradT]

If it runs with the choke on I would try a heavy dose of sea foam with new clean gas, and take it for a nice hard ride.

 

Bring a plug wrench and a wire brush in case you foul the plugs. After riding for a while try to SLOWLY reduce the amount of choke. If it does not fix it then I would pull the carbs and clean them manually.

 

Sounds like something is clogged.

 

BRad

[Yamaman]

You might have bad gas, or water in tank, Completly Drain the Tank.

 

Also open the Drain SCREW on EACH Carb. and Drain the bowls.

 

 

OK, I've been looking everywhere. Where is this carb bowl drain screw? Is that the screw discussed at the bottom of page 6-10 in the service manual? Where the heck is it? Can I get to it without pulling the carbs off the bike? I've looked at every carb page in the service manual and exploded diagram I can find. Can't locate the bugger.

[Yamaman]

If it runs with the choke on I would try a heavy dose of sea foam with new clean gas, and take it for a nice hard ride.

 

Bring a plug wrench and a wire brush in case you foul the plugs. After riding for a while try to SLOWLY reduce the amount of choke. If it does not fix it then I would pull the carbs and clean them manually.

 

Sounds like something is clogged.

 

BRad

 

It runs, but only at idle with choke fully on. As soon as I begin to twist the throttle, it dies. So I can't take it for a hard run.

[GeorgeS]

OK, I've been looking everywhere. Where is this carb bowl drain screw? Is that the screw discussed at the bottom of page 6-10 in the service manual? Where the heck is it? Can I get to it without pulling the carbs off the bike? I've looked at every carb page in the service manual and exploded diagram I can find. Can't locate the bugger.

 

Carb Drain Screw:

See page 5-1 Service manual, Item #12 is the Drain hose.

 

Drain Valve ( #2 Phillips head, or Straight slot head Screw ) located oposit side from hose.

 

Left side of bike, ----Look at, Aft Carb, ----look Aft side of carb, Just Above where its mounted INTO the Rubber Intake Manifold. You will be looking right at it.

 

You will be looking right at it !!

 

Left Fwd, is harder to get at, but in same place on bottom of carb.

 

One on Each Carb.

 

Open drains ONE at a time, then turn key to ON position, to see if the Pump is actually pumping fuel thru Each Carb.

 

IF not, use Heavy dose of SEA Foam and give it a couple of days to work.

[Yamaman]

Carb Drain Screw:

See page 5-1 Service manual, Item #12 is the Drain hose.

 

Drain Valve ( #2 Phillips head, or Straight slot head Screw ) located oposit side from hose.

 

Left side of bike, ----Look at, Aft Carb, ----look Aft side of carb, Just Above where its mounted INTO the Rubber Intake Manifold. You will be looking right at it.

 

You will be looking right at it !!

 

Left Fwd, is harder to get at, but in same place on bottom of carb.

 

One on Each Carb.

 

Open drains ONE at a time, then turn key to ON position, to see if the Pump is actually pumping fuel thru Each Carb.

 

IF not, use Heavy dose of SEA Foam and give it a couple of days to work.

 

Well, we must have different service manuals - page 5-1 is the radiator in mine. Also, I looked at your profile and it says you own a 1st Gen. You do realize that we're talking about a 2nd Gen here, right? Anyway, I just gave it a quick look following your instructions, and no luck yet, but it's after midnight and I'm pretty tired, so I'll give it another go tomorrow after work.

 

Thanks for all the help. Sorry I'm so "carb" challenged!

[Yamaman]

OK George, I found the exploded carb diagram. Its' in this thread:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2477

 

On page 26, item 12 is identified as the drain plug, and item 62 as the pipe. If this is what I want then it seems this part of the carb is in the middle of the cluster. Doesn't seem like it would be accessable with removing the carbs from the bike.

 

If this is not the right drain plug, then where on the diagram is the one you're talking about?

 

Thanks.