New Venture owner

[Ivan]

To answer one of your earlier questions about part availability E-bay, search Yamaha Venture and or Yamaha Venture Royale . It sounds like your dash gauge cluster has multiple issues. The entire gauge assemble come up often and usually sells pretty cheap. There is a difference between the 83-85 std & Vr and the 86-93 Vr gauge assemblies so make sure you get one that matches your bike. sounds like you have the one with clock which is more common. I'm parting out a 84vstardard and am offering parts to forum members first before I put parts on ebay so let me know what you need and I'll let you know if I still have it.

 

Squidleys comment about these bikes being electrically finaky is an understatement. Get in the habit early to disconnect every quick connect electrical plug you come across and clean contacts with one these products crg 2-26, crc electrical contact cleaner, then fill female side of plug with diaelectric grease before reconnecting. Trust me. when connecting wires always solder the connecton, no wire nuts scotch locks and avoid crimp connectors as much as possible. Add Sea-foam cleaner to gas ands oil as soon as possible and ad to gas for a few tank fulls. The aerosol version shown below is convenient for a fast application for the carb slides.

 

You found the right place for a wealth of knowledge and experience on these bikes and all of the people on here are super and more than willing to help.

 

Good luck

 

Thanks for the hints. I have several large tubes of ford electrical grease left over form an air bag recall on crown vics (I think, its been a while). This stuff works wonders for electrical connections.

 

To use a bad movie analogy "Scotch-locks is the devil!" (waterboy). I hate those damn things. Wire nuts are great, if you are working on a house. I stick with the solder and heatshrink or weatherproof crimp connectors on automotive stuff. The weather proof crimp connectors are very good since they are coated with glue on the inside and make a great seal. Supposedly they are good for underwater, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

I used to wrench on cars, with a specialty in electrical diag and repair, so I am good with the repair. The diag may be a bit of a problem, since I don't seem to find any good wiring diagrams.

 

As for the parts offer. I have had several people offer parts so far (WOW!). So I might as well put up some of the parts I need.

 

Front brake and clutch master cylinders

 

Water pump cover

 

starter solenoid

 

Pretty much any body part. The bike looks like it sat out in the weather, and the panels are absolutely fragile. they break just looking at them.

 

Instrument cluster, maybe. I still need to look into it.

 

Now here's the catch. Boeing strike trickle down still has me on a short work week, novermber is the month for me to tag all my vehicles, and the holidays are coming up, and six kids need Christmas presents. I may have to buy a little bit at a time, so please bear with me.

 

Any one in need of XS1100 parts, I may be able to work a trade.

[Ivan]

I just reviewed the schematic.

 

Does the CMS shut down if you turn off the kill switch? If so check your turn signal fuse.

 

The CMS is powered by the turn signal circuit. When the bike is not in neutral power can feed back from the safety relay, through the neutral light, to the CMS. The kill switch shuts off power to the safety relay.

 

I have not checked this, but it is entirely possible. The turn signals aren't working either, but I didn't connect the two. You may be onto something.

[Dragonslayer]

Thanks for the hints. I have several large tubes of ford electrical grease left over form an air bag recall on crown vics (I think, its been a while). This stuff works wonders for electrical connections.

 

To use a bad movie analogy "Scotch-locks is the devil!" (waterboy). I hate those damn things. Wire nuts are great, if you are working on a house. I stick with the solder and heatshrink or weatherproof crimp connectors on automotive stuff. The weather proof crimp connectors are very good since they are coated with glue on the inside and make a great seal. Supposedly they are good for underwater, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

I used to wrench on cars, with a specialty in electrical diag and repair, so I am good with the repair. The diag may be a bit of a problem, since I don't seem to find any good wiring diagrams.

 

As for the parts offer. I have had several people offer parts so far (WOW!). So I might as well put up some of the parts I need.

 

Front brake and clutch master cylinders

 

Water pump cover

 

starter solenoid

 

Pretty much any body part. The bike looks like it sat out in the weather, and the panels are absolutely fragile. they break just looking at them.

 

Instrument cluster, maybe. I still need to look into it.

 

Now here's the catch. Boeing strike trickle down still has me on a short work week, novermber is the month for me to tag all my vehicles, and the holidays are coming up, and six kids need Christmas presents. I may have to buy a little bit at a time, so please bear with me.

 

Any one in need of XS1100 parts, I may be able to work a trade.

Sounds like you know what your doing with 12 volt electrical systems. That will give you a good head start.

http://labs.trunkful.com/8385servicemanual.pdf

 

As far as diagnosis download the shop manual from here you should be able to find any of the wiring diagrams you may need from the manual.

 

I've got the clutch and brake masters

water pump cover

Body parts, Left front fairing, front fender, Tank cover, left and right side covers

trunk and saddle bags are promised already, if he doesn't take them your next on the list.

 

If you'll pay shipping you can pay me for parts when you can we can negotiate price I'm flexable.

[Dragonslayer]

I have not checked this, but it is entirely possible. The turn signals aren't working either, but I didn't connect the two. You may be onto something.

Check the flasher signal switch to the inside the fork well to the left of right dash panel all the signal wiring goes through this switch. I've got a couple of these if you need one.

[Ivan]

Sounds like you know what your doing with 12 volt electrical systems. That will give you a good head start.

http://labs.trunkful.com/8385servicemanual.pdf

 

As far as diagnosis download the shop manual from here you should be able to find any of the wiring diagrams you may need from the manual.

 

I've got the clutch and brake masters

water pump cover

Body parts, Left front fairing, front fender, Tank cover, left and right side covers

trunk and saddle bags are promised already, if he doesn't take them your next on the list.

 

If you'll pay shipping you can pay me for parts when you can we can negotiate price I'm flexable.

 

Thanks for the link.

 

I have the master cylinders and water pump cover taken care of.

 

let me know about the other stuff, if it comes up. I think my luggage is all ok, so I don't need that. I think it is a different type of plastic, and didn't get brittle.

[Dragonslayer]

Thanks for the link.

 

I have the master cylinders and water pump cover taken care of.

 

let me know about the other stuff, if it comes up. I think my luggage is all ok, so I don't need that. I think it is a different type of plastic, and didn't get brittle.

Which parts are you interested in?

[Ivan]

sooner or later I will need fairings. I want to get it running well before I get into the cosmetics. I think the only pieces that survived well are the trunk and side bags. every thing else is really brittle. the false tank may be ok, but all the side covers and dash panels are so brittle, they crack when I even walk by them.

 

You said they may be spoken for, and that is ok, as I am not in a terrible hurry.

[Gearhead]

Ivan,

 

I've read enough posts about cold solder joints in the CMS that I'd check those out again. They say to re-flow all of them whether they look cold or not.

 

My LCD "N" indicator is flaky as some have said - sometimes it stays on, sometimes it's slow to come on, sometimes it doesn't come on, even though the green neutral indicator is totally reliable, so it's not the swtich. But the CMS is otherwise perfectly functional, so it's no worry - not the same as yours!

 

On those master cylinder sight glasses - On my Virago I had one rot. I replaced it with a piece of metal the right size - a dime, it turns out - and it's been fine for years. It's not much good as a sight glass, though...

 

6 kids? Wow. I have 4, and not planning to catch up to you either! But one never knows...

 

Jeremy

[Ivan]

I am having a heck of a time finding carb kits for this beast. Is there a model of Vmax that might have the same carbs? I can find some individual pieces, but $20 a pop for a jet block gasket isn't right. not right at all.

[Dragonslayer]

sooner or later I will need fairings. I want to get it running well before I get into the cosmetics. I think the only pieces that survived well are the trunk and side bags. every thing else is really brittle. the false tank may be ok, but all the side covers and dash panels are so brittle, they crack when I even walk by them.

 

You said they may be spoken for, and that is ok, as I am not in a terrible hurry.

No just the saddlebags and trunk are spoken for the other ones are available. just let me know when your ready for them.

[Dragonslayer]

I am having a heck of a time finding carb kits for this beast. Is there a model of Vmax that might have the same carbs? I can find some individual pieces, but $20 a pop for a jet block gasket isn't right. not right at all.

 

Ivan,

It's gonna be very hard to find a rebuild kit for these carbs.

 

I'm telling you it is cheaper to buy a complete set of carbs off a running bike e-bay for $100 bucks or so then trying to find the parts to rebuild a set. A complete set of diaphrams new (4 Large, 4 small) cost $480.00. What parts you can find from yamaha that are still available you will have to get a second mortgage on your house to afford. The last shop that touched my bike charged me $1,400.00 ($800.00 parts the rest labor)to rebuild and sync my carbs and screwed them up worse then they were. And didn't even replace the diaphrams.

 

Trust me I had to learn the hard way before I found my way to this forum. I was about to part my bike out and sell on e-bay when I found this sight that breathed new life breath into my bike.

 

These great people have helped me by leading me straight and teaching me how to work on her myself. Now no one but me with the help I get from this site will ever work on my bike again.

[Ivan]

Well, the diaphragms look good on the first carb. I was hoping to find the rubber plugs for the jet block and gaskets in a nifty kit. The carb kits for my XS were just a bowl gasket, a needle and seat and new jets. I may have to get out the hole punches and make new gaskets.

[Ivan]

I finally have the carbs back together and on the bike. I tried to start it, and I don't think the battery has enough to start in this cold weather. Looks like I either find a way to heat my garage, or wait until it warms up. Maybe a jumpstart from a car battery would do it. I am getting anxious to get this beast running.

[Venturous Randy]

Thanks for the post Ivan, I was wondering how this was going.

RandyA

[Squeeze]

I finally have the carbs back together and on the bike. I tried to start it, and I don't think the battery has enough to start in this cold weather. Looks like I either find a way to heat my garage, or wait until it warms up. Maybe a jumpstart from a car battery would do it. I am getting anxious to get this beast running.

 

Sure Ivan, go get that Thing running. A Jump Start from Car Battery is just fine.

 

I'like to hear some Progress.

[Ivan]

Well, its runinng.

 

I do owe a big thanks to everyone for their support and especially to Bongobobny and AtlantaDragonSlayer for their help with parts.

 

I still have a lot to do, but my spirits are raised because it runs well now.

[woz111]

With the blank LCD, try removing the headlight, take it off completely so you can get to the back of the dash/display unit, look for the two thick cables that go into the clocks and take them out, squirt some electrical contact cleaning fluid onto the connectors and put back in to try. I hope you get the display working by doing this, I did as when I was working on my bike, the LCD went out altogether, then worked intermittently like yours.