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Posted

Just bought an 84, not the Royale version (standard?)

 

It needs lots of work. Been sitting for a couple years, every body piece on it is cracked some how, and the carb slides are stuck, just from my first looking over it.

 

Good news is that I can jump the solenoid and it cranks over.

 

I am sure I will have many questions, but my first one is this:

 

When in neutral, the computerized display, the LCD part only, goes blank. In gear it displays properly. While I suspect t has something to do with the neutral start switch, is there a common place that I might check first as to avoid completely tearing apart the wiring harness?

 

Also, is there a good place to find parts for this bike? Parts N more doesn't list it, and most other places I have found charge near dealer prices, or don't list it.

 

Thanks

Posted

Tons of parts on ebay, some stuff you will have to get from the dealer/stealer.

Other guys will have to help you with your problems, I just got my 88 Venture. And it didn't need to much. So I'm waiting on the title to come back to me to get legal. There is some stuff called "plastix" I think they use to fix the body parts. Fantastic things can be done with it, in the right hands. Look thru the first gen tech topics for alot of info. Good luck.

Posted

Just post your problems as you come to them on here and you will get all the help you need. When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump click? Electrical things others will have to help with that is my weak point. Plastic Fix at Wally World called Devcron Plastic Welder a 2 part Epoxey that work good.

Posted

Yes the fuel pump rattles when the key is on. The starter solenoid is toast, and I had to jump it to check that the engine cranks.

 

The rest of the dash lights come on, but the LCD display only works in gear.

 

Good thing its winter, I have time to work on this beast. :hihi:

Posted
Just bought an 84, not the Royale version (standard?)

 

 

Also, is there a good place to find parts for this bike? Parts N more doesn't list it, and most other places I have found charge near dealer prices, or don't list it.

 

Thanks

 

Good prices here & put that you are a Venturerider member in the comments box.

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=81

Posted

If I remember correct my 84 Royale acted the same...

showed each gear in display until in Neutral which showed the N

briefly then went out when the green light came on.

Odd but was how mine worked. Maybe others can confirm.

Posted

Your neutral light problem is most likely dirty contacts on the gear imndicator switch. It's a rotary type switch with a contact for each gear position. Without the neutral signal the bike will never start (probably the reason it sat for years). Consult the service manual for proper procedures for removal. There is an electronic PDF file of the manual on this site.

 

I'm assuming that the green neutral light does not light as well...

Posted

The battery isn't so weak the neutral light pulls all the juice is it?

 

I don't think the rotary gear selector switch is your problem. More likely you have a bad connection somewhere and the module is drawing it's power or ground (too early to read schematics!) from the neutral light circuit. When the neutral switch engages it turns on the light and messes up the free ride the module was getting.

Posted

As you can see your on a site were there are alot of friendly people willing to help. Some with differing opinions which is good becasuse it will give you a wealth of ideas. Some might be wild goose chases but then at least you know that wasn't the problem.

 

Anyway you'll find advise and parts here as some members buy bikes for parts for thier own fixes and sell off the rest to off set costs. Check the site often and eventually a part or an answer will come your way.:welcome1:

Posted

The battery is off my XS11, and is good. It has enough to crank the engine with authority when I jump the solenoid, so i don't think it is a low available power issue.

 

When the bike is in neutral, the LCD portion goes blank. I suspect this is a no start cause, leading to the bike sitting.

 

Someone suggested seafoam in the carbies, but they are coming off soon to be fully re conditioned. I used to wrench on cars and have rebuilt hundreds of q-jets, holleys, carters etc. Not so long ago, I rebuilt the carbs on my XS 11, and it worked fantastically. On this venture, the slides on the rear cylinders are so gummed up, they won't move, so yeah, they are getting a bath hehe.

 

I want to get the bike running before I start buying lots of parts. It needs a lot (master cylinders have the sight gage rotted out, and water pump cover is missing, etc and so forth) but I need to hear it run before I decide wether to restore it or not. Mostly I was hoping the blank LCD was a common problem, since my thinkin cap tends to get lost on the weekends. Probably under the cooler of beer.:thumbsup:

Posted

Ivan,

Your in the right spot for info, but it sounds like a heavy challenge is ahead of you. 1st gens are good machines and properly tuned will scare the hell out of you. Many good comments here, I'll throw in a few also.

Ventures are VERY fussy on electrical, make sure ALL of your connections are clean and tight. The solenoid has a blue and white wire running to it, make sure it's clean and properly connected. Make sure your ground cable is absolutely clean, it attaches to the lower right engine casing and if corroded will give problems.

The computer screen on the dash may also have issues, there might be a problem with some of the soldered connections on it that may need to be address. There is info in the tech library for this. The carbs also need to have the floats properly adjusted, there is info on how to adjust float levels also here.

It sounds like you need to strip her down and 1 by 1 go through and check all the connections. I have redone a few 1st gens and it's a tedious process, but we'll be here to steer you in the right direction....Welcome to the site, hope to see more of you here :happy34:

Posted

ivan, you need to be instructed on how to use THIS FORUM. first of all it's not a bike forum, it's a EATING CLUB with a riding disorder!! we have meet and EATS all over the country! are you getting my drift??? post a messaging about cooking a few dogs, maybe some burgers and having a few bevages too one weekend and hint you MAYBE playing with your bike and i'm sure you will have a few guys ride long distances to help you play with you toy. freebird had about 70 bikes show up at his house for such a thing!! they'll have it strip and re-assembled over the weekend. they may even bring a few parts along or swap a few off theirs to check things out too. enjoy the site and hang in there, you will be riding it soon, don. ps, they are call garage or maintenance days!! but the meet and EAT may get more attention!!LOL:thumbsup:

Posted

The solenoid is all rusted up, and when I supply voltage and ground on the primary windings, nothing happens. I have a nifty tool that attaches to the battery and has a probe with a switch that gives voltage or ground. It has a separate ground lead so one can test components.

 

this is it:

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/N.21-Power-Probe-II/PID.PWP-PP2/prodid.51987/TID.%7B49765B43-DC28-47FD-AB20-BD2EB7A212E3%7D/qx/product.htm

 

Anyhoot, I am sure that I need to replace the solenoid to make push button starting possible. My main concern is that if the LCD blanks in neutral, I may ot be getting power to the ignition system either.

 

I am not looking forward to wiring harness repair, but it has to be done. At least I am not upside down under the dash of a FOrd Escort with my feet sticking out the sun roof. :happy65:

[url=http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/N.21-Power-Probe-II/PID.PWP-PP2/prodid.51987/TID.%7B49765B43-DC28-47FD-AB20-BD2EB7A212E3%7D/qx/product.htm][/url]

Posted
ivan, you need to be instructed on how to use THIS FORUM. first of all it's not a bike forum, it's a EATING CLUB with a riding disorder!! we have meet and EATS all over the country! are you getting my drift??? post a messaging about cooking a few dogs, maybe some burgers and having a few bevages too one weekend and hint you MAYBE playing with your bike and i'm sure you will have a few guys ride long distances to help you play with you toy. freebird had about 70 bikes show up at his house for such a thing!! they'll have it strip and re-assembled over the weekend. they may even bring a few parts along or swap a few off theirs to check things out too. enjoy the site and hang in there, you will be riding it soon, don. ps, they are call garage or maintenance days!! but the meet and EAT may get more attention!!LOL:thumbsup:

 

Ohhhhhh......

 

Well I do have a tendency to indulge a bit too much. Probably why I look like I do. I have a furniture figure, my chest fell into my drawers. I have a connection to a packing house, and I can get steaks and such on the cheap. I may have to have a "bike meat" some time. Unfortunately, there are no good twisties in mid Kansas to work off the extra calories.:mad: During the summer, there are "biker pancakes" in a small town south of here on the third sunday of the month. Beer flavored pancakes, what could be closer to heaven?

Posted

Good news, it runs. Still pretty rough, but it runs. Nexst step is a solenoid, and figuring out why the display blanks in neutral.

 

I looked at the wiring diagram on one of the pdfs and there is no gear sensing switch on the diagram. Must have the wrong one or something. I am willing to bet there is a short to ground on the neutral wire some where. I did see where the PO ran some "extra" wiring and used those damn scotch lock connectors. Lots of work cut out for me.

Posted

If you take off the left side rear cover (middle gear cover), will lose a little oil, you can look in there right behind the kickstand switch and see the gear indicator rotary switch. Follow the harness and check the connector, it may be right avoce the kickstand switch (rear portion). Might as well pull the 2 side covers off and have a good look around, if you haven't already. Flatout has good parts schematics to show you where stuff is.

 

Welcome here Ivan, look forward to seeing that 84 Standard out on the road.

 

Dan

Posted

To make sure we understand what is going on:

 

There are 2 displays. The upper is the computerized monitor system. The lower has the gear indicator and the clock.

 

When you turn the key to on the monitor system should perform a scan. Each segment will light in turn. After the scan (and assuming the side stand is down) the LED should be flashing, the top right cell of the monitor should show the side stand indicator, the right three cells of the monitor show the fuel level, and all other cells should be off. The lower display should show the gear on the left and the clock on the right.

 

As I understand your problem, it all appears normal with the bike in gear, but both displays and the LED die when you shift to neutral. Is this correct?

Posted

Yes that is correct. The center portion LCD screen goes blank. I pulled the instrument panel today and checked all the connections to be clean and not corroded, and pulled the LCD out of the panel and everything in there looks good as far as I can tell. No burnt traces or cold solder joints.

 

It behaves just as you say if I turn the key on in gear, but when I shift into neutral, it dies. The illumination still works, but I think that is a separate system.

 

After I got the thing running, I noticed the gauges and tach don't work either, but I wasn't able to shift into gear, since my clutch master cylinder is toast.

Posted

To answer one of your earlier questions about part availability E-bay, search Yamaha Venture and or Yamaha Venture Royale . It sounds like your dash gauge cluster has multiple issues. The entire gauge assemble come up often and usually sells pretty cheap. There is a difference between the 83-85 std & Vr and the 86-93 Vr gauge assemblies so make sure you get one that matches your bike. sounds like you have the one with clock which is more common. I'm parting out a 84vstardard and am offering parts to forum members first before I put parts on ebay so let me know what you need and I'll let you know if I still have it.

 

Squidleys comment about these bikes being electrically finaky is an understatement. Get in the habit early to disconnect every quick connect electrical plug you come across and clean contacts with one these products crg 2-26, crc electrical contact cleaner, then fill female side of plug with diaelectric grease before reconnecting. Trust me. when connecting wires always solder the connecton, no wire nuts scotch locks and avoid crimp connectors as much as possible. Add Sea-foam cleaner to gas ands oil as soon as possible and ad to gas for a few tank fulls. The aerosol version shown below is convenient for a fast application for the carb slides.

 

You found the right place for a wealth of knowledge and experience on these bikes and all of the people on here are super and more than willing to help.

 

Good luck

Posted

I just reviewed the schematic.

 

Does the CMS shut down if you turn off the kill switch? If so check your turn signal fuse.

 

The CMS is powered by the turn signal circuit. When the bike is not in neutral power can feed back from the safety relay, through the neutral light, to the CMS. The kill switch shuts off power to the safety relay.

Posted

All 3 have the LCD "N" go out very soon after shifting to nuetral but the green "Nuetral" light works. We're just not worrying about it and it does not effect any bike or other electrical functions. Sometimes my LCD "N" does stay on...

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