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Posted

Thats what i thought,I think the washers would just cause your hands to go to sleep faster.

I had the wobble in mine and solid moter mounts cured it.

Alot of work but well worth it:thumbsup2:

Posted
Thats what i thought,I think the washers would just cause your hands to go to sleep faster.

I had the wobble in mine and solid moter mounts cured it.

Alot of work but well worth it:thumbsup2:

 

These tiny rubber Washer has onyl to do with the Ability to adjust the upper and lower Locknuts in the Position where the they can be held together with the Security Cramp. Has nothing to do with the Hands or Handlebars vibrating.

 

Solid Motor Mounts are indeed a very good Idea.

Posted

The rubber washer allows easy adjusting of the steering head bearing preload. Adjust the lower nut so the preload is just right, put on the rubber washer, thread the upper nut down just snug on the rubber washer (this part is key), engage a special lock washer that prevents the two nuts from rotating separately, then install the upper tree and the crown nut on top which locks the upper nut from turning, which by virtue of the special lock washer also prevents the lower nut from turning. Therefore, the lower nut which preloads the bearing is not solidly locked up but rather has a little play in the lock washer and the threads.

 

With the Furber fix, the rubber washer is replaced by metal and the upper nut is tightened down tightly on that, solidly locking the bearing preload. However, it makes setting the bearing preload harder because play in the threads allows the bearing preload to change when you tighten the upper "locking" nut. So you set the preload, tighten the locknut, and the preload is now changed (tighter than you set it, I believe), so you have to go back in and make an adjustment, tighten the locknut again, see how it is, etc.

 

Yamaha used that rubber washer in a bunch of bikes, including 3 I've had. If it caused front-end wobble, I don't think they'd have used it! Wobble is usually caused by front tire balance, or maybe head bearings, although I have to admit I have a little left in the Venture I haven't been able to eradicate. I highly doubt this changes anything with front-end wobble.

 

Jeremy

Posted

I have a washer on the workbench. When I did my bearings I used the rubber washer. It took about 2 1/2 weeks to get the washer from Blue Mountain. I wanted to ride so I used the OEM method. No wobble so far. When I go back in for the fork overhaul I will put in the aluminum washer. I understand the concept. The upper section of the triple tree is not tapered. So when you tighten down the retainer nut for it, you are clamping the casting between the locknut underneath and the top nut. If the lower nut gets loose, so does the top casting. By locking the 2 lower nuts then locking the casting down on top the whole thing is solid. Sorry if the explanation is a bit fuzzy. My upper bearing nut was loose and rattling when I took the top casting off!!

 

JB

Posted

If someone will send me the dimentions for this washer, Outside diameter, Inside diameter, and thickness, I will make everyone on this site one for FREE! Is the material aluminum or steel? If you even might think you need one, I'll make you one!:confused24:

Good Grief!

Washer Safe,

Earl

Posted

I don't mean to get off on a rant here, but after looking at the Ebay ad for the washer I couldn't help but notice that the shipping cost for that $11.00 washer was $6.00 more dollars! I guess at this point, I am BEGGING Lonestarmedic to please measure that washer, and like I said in my other post, I will make one for anybody who wants one. Heck, If you feel guilty about taking me up on my offer, Make an $11.00 donation to VentureRider.Org and save the $6.00 shipping cost! No wonder we're paying $3.00 for gas!

Earl

Posted
I don't mean to get off on a rant here, but after looking at the Ebay ad for the washer I couldn't help but notice that the shipping cost for that $11.00 washer was $6.00 more dollars! I guess at this point, I am BEGGING Lonestarmedic to please measure that washer, and like I said in my other post, I will make one for anybody who wants one. Heck, If you feel guilty about taking me up on my offer, Make an $11.00 donation to VentureRider.Org and save the $6.00 shipping cost! No wonder we're paying $3.00 for gas!

Earl

I like the way you think I thought the same thing. But the last time I made a point on this forum about what I thought was excessive Ebay shipping cost for the item I was throughly chastised, threatened by a postal postal worker, and flat out told I was a perverbial idiot from hell.

 

So I'm glad you made the point instead of me.You have restored my faith that this country is great because of those brave enough to stand up for what is right in the face of adverse public opinion. I salute you.I do realize your offer is selfless in nature.

 

I'd like one of those free washers, and will be glad to donate a fair value to the forum which I figure to be:

 

Cost of the washer .34

cost of shipping 1st class stamp .40

Cost of a envelope and addressing ink .06

cost of protective packaging material scotch tape .002

100% markup because it's for a worthy cause .802

Your donated time and effort priceless

Total US$ 1.604

 

Ah heck let's just round it up to lets say $ 2.00 US

 

Thats roughly a .37 profit per unit

.37 X 6000 members = $2,220.00

 

This might be a decent sideline business

 

Just see where Yamaha got by charging like $8.00 for an O-ring

Posted

I only paid $5.00 for mine shipped from Blue Mountain. However, he seems a bit off line right now. I asked if he had any more and never heard back. Skydoc, my washer is in an envelope doing nothing until December. If you sent me a PM with an address, it could do nothing but sit in a set of calipers at your place :smile5:

 

I say see what it takes to make a bunch then decide on a price. I would hang a few on a nail. Wish I had a hobby lathe or milling machine. This kind of stuff is easy to make.

JB

Posted

I agree with yor thoughts on pricing. I often charge labor to do a job based upon what a person can pay, not on what it is worth. I prefer to "pay it forward" when possible. I hate seeing the e-bay folks charging an unbelievable shipping price to avoid paying a percent on the sale price of an item. e-bay doesn't calculate billing on shipping costs.

 

JB

Posted
The upper section of the triple tree is not tapered. So when you tighten down the retainer nut for it, you are clamping the casting between the locknut underneath and the top nut. If the lower nut gets loose, so does the top casting.

 

I really don't think this is a common problem. If the crown (top) nut is properly torqued down on the upper tree piece, the load it puts on the upper bearing nut (under the tree) keeps it from loosening. Just like any bolt or nut properly torqued - the resulting friction in the threads and under the bolt head prevent loosening. On my 3 Yammy's with this "rubber washer" system I've never found the crown nut loose.

 

JB, if you put the cruise on at 40, take your hands off the bars (but keep them close), and bump one grip with your hand, does that start a wobble? (It's easy to quell with a quick grip on the bars.) Just curious.

 

Jeremy

 

Jeremy

Posted
Thats what i thought,I think the washers would just cause your hands to go to sleep faster.

I had the wobble in mine and solid moter mounts cured it.

Alot of work but well worth it:thumbsup2:

Agreed I tried each fix one at a time bearings,fork brace, etc, solid motor mounts was the one that made the difference. Lots of work especially for the rear left one but worth it IMHO.

Posted

Gearhead -

I found the upper bearing nut loose, not the outermost crown nut. I think this might leave a bit of flex between the fork tubes and the bearing stem. Granted the tube mounts are large, but there is a lot of leverage between the ground and the tree. I agree threads and torque keep a nut tightened. I also think we need to factor vibration into the equation. I think the idea of the Furbur washer is to provice 3 solid points of contact on the upper casting.

 

So far I can take my hands off the bar and it runs straight. I haven't smacked the bar and tried to induce a wobble as of yet. I think my loose bearings were more of the problem. My interest in the Furber fix comes from the desire to keep the bearing torque intact. I like the idea of locking the nuts down solid. Secondary to that is the geometry of the upper casting. I think it is altered when the crown nut is torqued down due to the compression of the rubber washer. Very minute I am sure but it could place a slight bind on the bearings and/or fork tubes.

 

JB

  • 7 years later...
Posted
The Washer goes between the two Locknuts on the upper Steering Head and replaces a rubber 'Washer' there.

 

WRONG.

The 2 nuts go against each other

(like they should have in the 1st place...!!!)

& the AL washer goes on top.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So...is this still considered an issue and fix ? Just wondering why it has been dormant for 8 years. I have not heard of this before. :confused24:

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