Any upgrades for an 83 stator and rectifier?

[taps442]

My 83 recently started crapping out while riding-I pulled the left side cover and located the 3 white wire connection--difficult to even pull apart (you guys know what's coming next!) Once I got it apart-it looked bad and burnt and melted the plastic connector! The black plastic wire cover that is over all 3 wires is hard as a rock, splitting, oil leaking out! And the 3 white wires insulation is brittle. So, the $100.00 question is---since it needs to be replaced-is there an upgrade for the rectifier/regulator? I know sometimes VMAX stuff interchanges-and since I need to replace the r/r due to bad wiring--should I replace the stator at the same time-seems like the 2 go hand in hand, and if so, is there an upgrade for that? I don't have a lot of extra cash right now and would like to fix this the first time. Any recommendations for vendors or after market suppliers for these 2 parts? (My bike has 38,000 miles on it)

Thanks for the help and advice in advance!--Steve

[Marcarl]

When you get to that point in the life of your scoot, just clean it all up and solder them together. Make sure you provide plenty of insulation and you should be good to go. That connector is often the problem for stator failure and may even be your only problem at this point.

You can try these guys to see if they have something for you, although they don't list one.

http://www.rmstator.com/en/index.php?page=4/Motorcycles/Yamaha

[bongobobny]

There are a couple of aftermarket stators out there that give a little more output than stock. You might want to talk to Rick at Buckeye Performance. He is a member here and gives a discount to vr members. He's listed in the vendors who give us discounts area. Yhere is also an oil cooling kit available for the early mk1's but there is a good chance that the mod to correct the inadequate cooling has already been done to yours under recall. Do a search as this has been discussed here in the past.

 

As ling as your rectifier is working OK there should be no real reason to replace it at this time. They are pretty much a works or don't work item...

[taps442]

Thanks for the advice--I will try to do the wire soldering thing--Those white wires are braided--one is basically fraying where it was bent--should I try to get more of the same type wiring, then splice it in and solder? Steve

[Marcarl]

Thanks for the advice--I will try to do the wire soldering thing--Those white wires are braided--one is basically fraying where it was bent--should I try to get more of the same type wiring, then splice it in and solder? Steve

Generally there is enough slack to pull things together, if you do that don't make things snug, if that happens you'll need to extend the length somewhat.

[Gearhead]

If you have to extend the wires, get the same gage, but the "braided insulation" or whatever isn't important.

 

Jeremy

[GeorgeS]

If you cut out the 3 wire plug, there should be plenty of wire to Splice the Ends together,

 

Use a " Western Union Type Splice technic " Do a Google Search if you don't know how to make a Western Union Splice.

 

And be sure to Solder the New Splice's with Rosin Core Solder.

 

Apply a double layer of Heat Shrink Tubine ( avialable at Auto parts stores )

[5bikes]

Email me at chuckfrench48@gmail.com. $20+ shipping. NOS Yamaha Parts

[taps442]

Thanks for all the fast responses--I will try the fix on Wed--Steve

[taps442]

Well, today was the fix it day--soldered the 3 white wires, heat-shrinked, then test drove---Success! no more missing--the bike actually felt like it had more power. Just when I thought all was good-the fuel empty light came on--so I filled the bike up-warning light for no fuel still blinking red at me--I must have loosened a connection for it--maybe check tomorrow!

Thanks again for all the advice for fixing the rectifier wiring. Steve

[GeorgeS]

No voltage drop now across the Burnt Pins, ( you remove the high resistance )

 

Now that you have it running, Do an accurate DC Voltage REading across the Battery with a Digital Voltmeter. You should see 13.8 to 14.2 volts.

 

IF its above,13.8, your good. But keep an eye on the reading.

 

If below 13.0V, then better start doing some more trouble shooting.

[bongobobny]

Well, today was the fix it day--soldered the 3 white wires, heat-shrinked, then test drove---Success! no more missing--the bike actually felt like it had more power. Just when I thought all was good-the fuel empty light came on--so I filled the bike up-warning light for no fuel still blinking red at me--I must have loosened a connection for it--maybe check tomorrow!

Thanks again for all the advice for fixing the rectifier wiring. Steve

 

That's possible, but more than likely is the fuel level sendor unit, which is actually a rheostat to ground, has developed issues. This is a common problem. You can remove the sender unit and carefully remove the tin cover over the resistor element and clean the accumulated crud off of the element. You can also increase the tension on the slider with a screwdriver adjustment. Chances are you are going to find the resistor element is warped. You may end up replacing the sendor unit with another known good one...

[Venturous Randy]

That's possible, but more than likely is the fuel level sendor unit, which is actually a rheostat to ground, has developed issues. This is a common problem. You can remove the sender unit and carefully remove the tin cover over the resistor element and clean the accumulated crud off of the element. You can also increase the tension on the slider with a screwdriver adjustment. Chances are you are going to find the resistor element is warped. You may end up replacing the sendor unit with another known good one...

 

Great advise, but the first thing I would check is the connections at the gas tank. I have fixed several where the only thing I did was tighted up the terminals.

RandyA

[taps442]

Thanks everyone for the info on the fuel light being on--I will try the easy, simple stuff first!

Steve