Gearhead Posted July 3, 2007 #51 Posted July 3, 2007 "Regarding ruber parts gone on the carburetors, then I 'm running my bike without rubber parts since I bought it, and it runs fine." Huh??
NLAlston Posted July 3, 2007 Author #52 Posted July 3, 2007 Well, I just now heard back from the cycle shop's service department. JT (the service manager) was very understanding, and took time to explain a number of things to me. It turns out that the dealership feels bad that I had the bike less than 24 hours (less than eight, actually) - and experienced problems which warranted servicing. He explained that the previous owner had, apparently, mixed some type of Octane Boosting additive to the fuel, and that this (along with allowing it to be stored that way) was the causative factor for my bike's woes. He said that the inside of the tank looked as if it had gallstones. Consequently, the carburetor IS going to be rebuilt, and they are waiting on a rebuild kit now. I am told that such a kit is somewhat difficult to come by, due to the age of the bike. They will do everything they can to , hopefully, have it ready by the beginning of next week - but their stated aim is in getting it right, and returning to me a very 'ready' bike. I believe him, and I can now feel better about waiting. He also went on to explain that my bike has the same motor as the V-Max, just slightly geared down (he used a different terminology, though) - and that I might find myself raising the front wheel off the ground. I didn't know this, and wasn't aware that my bike had that kind of power to it. Not that I would use it like that, but it is good to know that such power is there. Once again, I'll keep everyone immediately posted as to developments. And, also again ~ THANKS TO ALL.
bongobobny Posted July 3, 2007 #53 Posted July 3, 2007 I have a set of Carbs I bought cheap on ebay in need of rebuilding myself... As far as any starting issue, well the first thing to do is put in larger battery cables. Member Squidley sells some upgraded cables in a kit that makes a difference fer sure, especially when the bike is hot. A second modification is springing the money for an "Odessy" dry cell (lithium I believe) battery that has a lot more cranking power. These go for around $100 but it makes a huge difference, and will be the last battery you will have to buy for it. Do a search on this to find a link to a few online sources. The Recommended model is the 680MJ (MJ for metal Jacket) but it is the same as thre 680 without the jacket, which is quite cheaper than the MJ. I am super happy with mine, as are several members. The last mod is to switch to a 4 brush starter which is a vmax starter and also the 2nd gen starter I think. Haven't done that mod but have done the cables and Odessy battery. To give you an example of the difference, when my clutch went out at the foot of the 219 in Springville, I started in 1st gear 3 times in a row with no problem, something that I never would have been able to do before the mods. There was a recent thread about starting, but in general I just choke it and push the button. I don't dare blip the throttle for at least 15 seconds or so, but I'm suspecting with the new plugs and wires that will change. I haven't touched my carbs since I bought it either 2 years ago. Even before the electrical mods, it always started, even after being stored for several months...
6pak Posted July 7, 2007 #54 Posted July 7, 2007 Nathan, I bought an 89vr in early april. The bike was in ...fair shape? Anyhow, I picked up a yamaha shop repair manual on cd on ebay. Not a chiltons book, the real deal. Now this thing doesn't have a troubleshooting section, but the guys on this site are helpful and knowledgeable. If you have a little ability, post the symptoms, they'll advise, and then just go to the book. Actually I've probably printed about 80 pages so far. Oh and it helps to have a pretty fair set of tools. Anyhow, just wanted to put in my 2 cents. 6pak.
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