Help tracking down electrical issue

[uthpda]

I need the electrical wizards help! I have two issues...

First, my turn signals only work intermittently. (Yeah I know they are supposed to go on and off....that is not what I me:no-no-no:...I have been around here long enough to know a comment was coming) Hitting bumps seems to make a difference. Any thoughts or ideas where to look? Or tests to run?

 

Second, my horn has quit. The previous owner took off the stock horns and it now has auto horns. I have replaced the horn rely and it work for like a day. Any thought on what could be the problem?

 

I have take apart the handlebar switch and cleaned connections, etc....didn't help. Looking for some ideas and options!, which always are in great supply around here!

[sarges46]

What about the connections at the blinker thingy....dang I cant think of the name!

 

Horn.....fuse too weak and blowing all the time? Pun not intended!..."I know these rascals too":rotf:

[Wizard765]

I had problems with my signals as well as a few other electrical problems such as lights not working sometimes and working fine other times. Like you said bumps sometimes helped. In my case I had two problems. My fuse panel was old and fatiqued. The only thing holding the fuses in most of the spots was gravity. I replaced them with the parts from a fuse block I picked up a Canadian Tire. Cost about $5.00 and almost everything was fixed except the signals. They worked sometimes and sometimes not. I replaced the electronic flasher unit and everything is good now.

[uthpda]

Fuse seem to be fine... haven't blown any and they seem to stay in place ok.

 

What does the electronic flasher look like? and where is it...did you replace it with a new stock on or something else?

[Wizard765]

Here in Canada from the dealer it is expensive ($150.00) but I got mine from eBay new in a bag for about $30. It is behind the dash. Not difficult to get at though. I took off the windshield and then the top of the dash. Once in there you can see it. There are a number of relays back there and the biggest is this flasher switch. It isn't like a car because it has self canceling circuits.

[uthpda]

Cancellation is not a big deal (or not worth 150) has anyone found somthing else that works.... and how can I test to see if that is what it is?

[BuddyRich]

Remove the covers. Then turn on the blinkers. Start tapping on the blinkers,flashers,wires and switches. Some where you should cause an affect and then you know your close to the problem if it is something that's loose

[GeorgeS]

First find the Relay, pull it out, and Clean the Contacts, that might fix it. ( maby, well, its worth a try )

 

I would check the bulb holders for corrosion: Maby replace all 4 bulbs.

 

Also, Under the Seat, left side, ( under the Passenger part of seat) there is a Large Pull apart, Connector, has about 12 wires going thru it. Pull this apart and Clean with contact cleaner. I have heard of problems with this plug. Wires to the Rear bulbs go thru this plug.

[Yammer Dan]

And put a little Di-Electric grease on the things you clean.

[6m459]

Hi,

 

I have replaced the horn rely and it work for like a day. Any thought on what could be the problem?

 

Electrically, the horns are an inductive load. Inductors want to keep the current flowing even when the supply stops. Energy is actually stored in the coils of the horns such that there is an arc across the relay contacts as they open and the energy dissipates. This arcing and energy dissipation makes short work of burning up the relay contact material.

 

What you need to do is provide a controlled means of dissipating that energy elsewhere. The way to do this is to use a diode wired across the horn so that it is reverse biased (nonconducting) when the horns are in operation which conveniently becomes forward biased (conducting) for the stored energy coming from the horns and safely dissipates it, which protects the relay contacts from burn up.

 

So, take a common 1n4005 or similar diode and wire it's cathode to the (+) horn connection and its anode to the horn's (-) ground connection.

 

This should fix things up as far as inductive kick is concerned.

 

Hope this is helpful,

 

Brian H. (C.E.T.)

[SilvrT]

wire it's cathode to the (+) horn connection and its anode to the horn's (-) ground connection.

 

Cathodes and Anodes .... "greek" to me...

 

[uthpda]

AAAAGGGGGHHHHHHH! I hate electrical problems. I have check and clean connections... pretty much every one I can find! I have tried taping and jiggling things to narrow down the problem...nothing! I can't seem to get them (the blinkers) to work again... they were working for a change when I started.

 

SO.... out of desperation I thought I would check continuity... randomly! I did discover that if I use the battery ground and check the plug on the front blinker light....every pin on the plug has continuity:confused07:... that is not normal is it? If it is...ignore this....it must be grounding out somewhere right?

 

Anybody got any thoughts? I want to ride tomorrow so I am trying to track it down tonight!

 

Thanks for all the ideas...

[GeorgeS]

To check the bulb sockets, reomve the bulbs.

 

Plug to each Socket, has 3 wires. disconnect plug, remove bulb, then check each wire to ground, and to each other.

 

then check, each pin in the plug, to each contact, in the bulb holder.

 

1157, bulbs have 2 fillaments. both internally connected to the outer case, which is ground.

 

OK, This is Very, Very Rare!! However, I have found bad bulbs that look OK, but one fillament can be dead shorted to the case ground. Or drop from about 4 ohms to grd, ( Normal ) to about 1 ohm. Bulb don't work, and fuse may or may not blow.

But This is Rare. This is one of the most confusing electrical problems to find.

 

This is why I say, when lighting problem, always replace the bulbs just to be sure. But I'm sure you have done that allready.

 

If you don't find anything Obvious, or bad bulbs, or bad switch , or shorted wireing, or, open wires, then the flasher unit is probably bad.

[GeorgeS]

I was just looking at diagram. For Power and Ground to the Flasher Relay.

 

 

The " B " black wire obviosly has to be Ground. Im sure you checked this At the disconnect plug going to the flasher.

 

Next, the " Br " wire At the Plug to the flasher is 12 Volts, Switched, from the " Signal " fuse. NOW ----

 

Power from sig. fuse goes to the " Hazard " switch, thru a set of contacts, (( Or the plug going " to " the Hazard Switch )) and then from there back thru its Pull apart plug, and --- Goes to the Flasher Relay --- thats its working power.

 

 

So, make sure you have 12 volts at the Br wire on the Plug to the flasher, relay. IF Not, the trouble Could be in the " Hazard Switch" that nobody ever use's. ( clean it with contact cleaner )

 

I hope I explained this clearly, not easy explaineing electrical stuff like this.

[uthpda]

Ok, I have check pretty much everything!

I can't find any shorts....is there a way to check the flasher unit? When the unit goes out will to work occasionally and then quit?

 

I called the dealer and they want 130 for a new one...way more than I can spend. So and thoughts on another way to make it work?

 

help!

[uthpda]

Ok I am confused...more than usual... I have the shop manual and in the wiring diagram it looks like the canceling unit, flasher relay and hazard relay are all separate, BUT on the bike there is only one unit that I can find (it is label flasher and hazard) SO it is one unit right?

 

The other thing is the wire colors on in the manual don't match the wiring into the flasher unit on the bike.....at all. Anyone have the correct wiring diagram? Or am I totally off?

 

Is it possible to rewire the flasher unit with car flasher(s) (alot cheaper) or will it cause issues? If so has anyone done it AND do you have any instructions?

 

I am watching ebay for a unit, but it will be as old as the one I have and I am concerned about it failing, too. (maybe not realistic, but a concern anyway)

 

I got the horn working:cool10: (hopefully it will stay that way)....just going crazy trying to get the turn signals working.

[Wizard765]

Ok, I have check pretty much everything!

I can't find any shorts....is there a way to check the flasher unit? When the unit goes out will to work occasionally and then quit?

 

I called the dealer and they want 130 for a new one...way more than I can spend. So and thoughts on another way to make it work?

 

help!

 

Yes they can work sometimes and not work other times when they go. Mine did that. I have a used one here. I bought a new one from eBay and replaced my unit that was only working part time. I also got some other parts at another time and one of the items was a flasher unit. I havn't tested it but they told me it was working in the old bike.

[Condor]

Ok I am confused...more than usual... I have the shop manual and in the wiring diagram it looks like the canceling unit, flasher relay and hazard relay are all separate, BUT on the bike there is only one unit that I can find (it is label flasher and hazard) SO it is one unit right?

 

If you haven't removed the windshield and checked behind the dash cover, as suggested in a couple of previous posts, then you haven't found the turn signal relay. You need to do it. Otherwise you're spittin' into the wind.

[buddy]

The flasher relay is beside the hazard flasher in left fairing area,remove left side glove box or radio unit assembly which ever you may have,the upper air vent tube by your dash assembly follow it down and you will see both units just under the air tube mounted against the splash shield,hard to get too but you can see these two items.The flasher Cancellation unit is on the left side as well if I'm not mistaken behind the headlight area,its been some time back since I been in the left side fairing.If the cancellation unit is the problem just unplug it, you just won't have the automatic cancellation anymore.

 

Flasher relay #2NV-83350-00-00 $61.53

Flasher cancellation unit # 1A0-83395-03-00 $66.54

 

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com

http://www.dgy.com

both places will treat you right. DGY gives Ventureriders a discount too.

 

buddy

[uthpda]

I have removed the windshield, fairings, etc...I have pretty much torn it all down. I have found a box that is labeled 41R-71... which is for BOTH turn signals and hazard.

 

So one thing I am confused about is others seem to indicate that there are multiple boxes... even with seperate part numbers... I can only find one unit. What am I missing here?

 

Anyone here have a unit that they are willing to sell?

[Wizard765]

I have removed the windshield, fairings, etc...I have pretty much torn it all down. I have found a box that is labeled 41R-71... which is for BOTH turn signals and hazard.

 

So one thing I am confused about is others seem to indicate that there are multiple boxes... even with seperate part numbers... I can only find one unit. What am I missing here?

 

Anyone here have a unit that they are willing to sell?

 

I have one that I was told is good. You can have it for the cost of shipping.

[uthpda]

I have one that I was told is good. You can have it for the cost of shipping.

 

I will be happy to do that! I will PM you to work out the details!

 

Man this place is great! Everyone is alway so willing to help!!!

[uthpda]

Got the part today.... I have turn signals!!!

Thanks to Wizard765!!

[93RoyalVen1300]

TRY TAKING APART THE HORN AND CLEANING THE CONTACTS . IT'S SOMETHING SIMPLE BUT USUALLY WORKS:080402gudl_prv:

[uthpda]

I replaced to the rely on the horns...works great!! Life is good!