rear drive oil fill bolt stuck

[6m459]

Can't get the rear drive oil filler plug out on my red bike. It seems stuck fast.

 

I have tried some heat and currently have some kroil soaking on top of it. Its dark now, so I'll leave it soak till tomorrow.

 

I am afraid of deforming the hex of the plug if I put on too much force.

 

I havent tried the drain plug bolt yet but everything is very dry on this bike so I'll bet it will be a problem too.

 

Suggestions?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

[Condor]

Can't get the rear drive oil filler plug out on my red bike. It seems stuck fast.

 

I have tried some heat and currently have some kroil soaking on top of it. Its dark now, so I'll leave it soak till tomorrow.

 

I am afraid of deforming the hex of the plug if I put on too much force.

 

I havent tried the drain plug bolt yet but everything is very dry on this bike so I'll bet it will be a problem too.

 

Suggestions?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

 

Get the right sized hex socket on a breaker bar. Tap on the plug a few times with a ball peen. Apply force in spurts.... not constant. It's worth a try... It's pretty tough to strip out a hex if using the correct sized socket. It's when the socket hex is a little undersized that the damage occurs... But you already knew all that....

[6m459]

Get the right sized hex socket on a breaker bar...........It's when the socket hex is a little undersized that the damage occurs... But you already knew all that....

 

I am using a 6mm hex key, which seems to fit properly. I have it on my 3/8 drive rachet and a foot of pipe on the handle of the wrench. Seems like a he11 of a lot of force to put onto 6mm!

 

Haven't tried tapping it with the hammer yet, I'll let the kroil soak till moring and then if its still stuck, I'll get out the hammer and then more heat.

 

I was a bit leary of heating the plug as if memory serves there is a dip stick on the other end that could be set in plastic or some other material that the heat would damage. Any advice about use of heat and damage to the dipstick setup?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont

[mtman]

Gotta remember it's not the plug you want to heat; it's the area around the plug. The plug has to stay cold. Heat expands; cold contracts. When you use heat, you are trying to seperate the male threads from the female. Hope that didn't sound like I think it did but it's correct. Couple other things... you can tap on the plug, which you are and also on the area surrounding the plug. Use a piece of hardwood. Be gentle but consistant. You can also try to tighten the bolt a bit by tapping on the rachet, then go the other way. It's frustrating... been there done that

[Neil86]

I was a bit leary of heating the plug as if memory serves there is a dip stick on the other end that could be set in plastic or some other material that the heat would damage. Any advice about use of heat and damage to the dipstick setup?

 

Brian.....the 83-85 Ventures had a plastic dipstick in the toolkit, the plug has nothing attached to it. The 86-93 gearcase did away with needing a dipstick altogether.

[saddlebum]

You can heat the plug but then throw cold water on it right away this tends to shock it and shrink it it is also a little safer then heating the casing as aluminum does not indicate how hot it is getting and can distort with no warnig. You also want to be carefull you dont tear the threads out of the casing which often happens when you thread steel into aluminum. so go easy. If you do happen to tear the threads out there are thread repair kits such as helli-coil available. Good luck

[6m459]

If you do happen to tear the threads out there are thread repair kits such as helli-coil available. Good luck

 

Even some epoxies these days claim to be good for casting thread repair. I have yet to put them to the test but it sounds too good to be true to me.

 

Brian H.

[skydoc_17]

If you do get it out, a rap of teflon plumbers tape will keep this from happening again.

Earl

[talonsx2]

I tried to soak, I tried to Heat and I even tried the Breaker Bar to no avail........I then used an impact wrench which didnt work the first time so I gave er another try a few days later and waalaw it finally came out.... I actually wanted to turn the dang bike over a fill er through the drain plug. LOL.... FYI dont try to take off the plug (Breather) on the top. It will come OFF ya know, :95:OOPS...

 

 

Thanks for the tip on the Plumbers tape.

 

 

Stay safe and keep the wheels on the road,

 

 

 

 

 

Michael (Place FIRE smiley here)

[royalstarjac]

It's a good idea to use anti sieze compound on the threads of anything threading into aluminum including spark plugs.-Jack

[sarges46]

Dont think this would be you...but....I almost broke that bolt off once trying to get it off....by turning the wrong way...seems I got a little turned around whilst lying on the ground and couldnt figure out which was righty tighty and lefty loosy! Sure worked great once that little item was mentioned to me!

[saddlebum]

Dont think this would be you...but....I almost broke that bolt off once trying to get it off....by turning the wrong way...seems I got a little turned around whilst lying on the ground and couldnt figure out which was righty tighty and lefty loosy! Sure worked great once that little item was mentioned to me!

 

probably what he did just won't admit it:bang head:

[Squeeze]

Dont think this would be you...but....I almost broke that bolt off once trying to get it off....by turning the wrong way...seems I got a little turned around whilst lying on the ground and couldnt figure out which was righty tighty and lefty loosy! Sure worked great once that little item was mentioned to me!

 

I broke a good Quality 1/2 Inch 19mm Socket when trying to losen the front Axle on my Max. Well, after the Socket broke and the Bolt Head was nearly striped, it did come to my Mind that it might be a good Idea to losen the Pinch Bolt first before try to turn the Axle again.

 

 

Guess what, it worked this Time !!!

 

 

:256:

[sarges46]

Sigh!!

Did that too.squeeze!

[6m459]

I did eventually get the plug out and all is well, no damage to threads or anything like that. Oh and I was turning it the right way.

 

I let the kroil sit and tried again next morning. It came free with a SNAP! Either the kroil worked or I was stronger in the morning, don't really know which, maybe both.

 

Thanks for the input & suggestions.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont

[RedRider]

+1 on the anti-sieze. Will make your life easier later.

 

RR

[bongobobny]

Mine was tight like that too, but it broke loose with impacting the ratchet handle a few times. Sure thought I was going to strip it out too. Used some penatrating oil on it and let it soak an hour or so as well...

[LukeMacPU]

I appreciate this thread is old, but it popped up in my search. I've tried all of the above. When I got to the impact step, my fill cap head stripped out instead of coming loose!

 

My bike is an '83. From some of the posts above, there is nothing on the inside of my fill cap (no dipstick) so I should be able to drill through it and either tap it for new bolt or get an EZ out in there to remove it right?

 

Any damage to be done this way? Seems if I stay in the fill cap with the drill, I shouldn't be able to hurt much. I have no tool-kit with my bike. New-to-me bike and I'd like to drain and refill with fresh. I'm assuming the gear lube volume needed is in manual?

Edited February 20, 2016 by LukeMacPU

[LukeMacPU]

Drilled and tapped today. Changed fluid and good to go after a bit of work!

 

Riding for the past couple of days, I've noticed the bike is smoother. I had a small vibration around 50 mph in 5th gear. That seems to be gone now that I've got fresh full synthetic gear oil in the rear end.

 

Glad I didn't put it off any longer, may have ended badly!

 

My thumbs did this on a tiny keyboard so cut me some slack!,

Edited February 23, 2016 by LukeMacPU