Let's fix the passenger footpegs once and for all!

[Guest Shep]

OK folks I have read just about everything I can find on the forum here (and several others) and seen a few of the mods that folks have done to lower and stretch out the passenger floorboards/pegs.

 

Perhaps with a consolidated effort we can master this and come up with something we can all use. Sooooo - let's limit this conversation to a "custom fix/fabrication" and stay away from recommending the Diamond R etc. It seems most of those do not drop the position just lengthens it.

 

Here is how Boe did it on an '06 RSTD:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23575&highlight=passenger+highway+pegs

 

And here is how Jercoupe did his mod:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16960

 

And according to another post I read we can use peg mounts from a Road Star - since the mounting has not changed. If this is so - then we should be able to use this Kury adapter: (attached below) With this attachment - we should be able to mount this on the back of the stock mount (maybe a spacer or two) and then attach a Kury longhorn offset with a peg - and retain the original floorboard. (This is the first picture attachment - I decided not to go this way)

 

Whatcha think?

 

OK - let 'er rip - let's solve this issue once-and-for-all so that we can all benefit with lower pegs/floorboards

 

Shep

 

Information added 10/11/08

 

OK folks - I decided to go with Jercoupe's modification with a few "slight" changes. The main change being that I decided to weld my 1/4 in angle-iron "onto" the existing passenger bracket. (I thought it might have a little more strength this way and allow me to use slightly shorter bolts to put everything back together.

 

I am going to try and give a step-by-step of what I have done so far. (And I want to say "Thanks" to those who have gone before me on this mod - really they have done most of the engineering.)

 

1. I bought a 3' piece of 1/4" 2X2 angle iron from Lowe's - Home Depot didn't have it. You won't use it all - but that was the shortest piece I could find.

 

2. I cut 4 pieces off the end at 3 1/2 inches long. (you will need 2 for each bracket)

 

3. Next I drilled 2ea - 5/8 in holes - 2 inches on center on one side of the angle iron. Keep these holes as close to the top as you can. This will allow more at the bottom of the bracket to but up against the frame for rigidity. (remember you will need to do this for 2 brackets.)

 

4. This one might be a little hard to explain - There is a U-shaped bracket that comes with your Longhorn clamps. The bolt that holds the clamps on goes through the clamp first - then this U-shaped bracket and this bracket is what keeps the peg from turning. (Picture attached)

a. The edge of this has to be trimmed off to fit over the edge of the 1/4 angle-iron where the peg will mount. (check out Jercoupe's mod above - he has a good picture of this.

 

5. Once this bracket and the corner of the angle-iron is "form fitted" to each other you can drill the hole in the corner of this piece of angle-iron. No guess work here - because the bracket gives you the location of the hole.

 

6. Now you are ready to weld the two pieces together. (Picture included)

 

7. Now you have some grinding to do to get those welds flat. (You must do this before your next step of welding your new bracket to the old one or you will not be able to reach the weld between them.

 

8. Slip new bracket with the 2 5/8 in. holes over the old floorboard bracket and weld together. (It helps to "round out the tops" of the new bracket holes to allow for the welds on the old bracket so it will set flush better. (No turning back now:Laugh:)

Now you are ready to "fit" everything" together as a dry-run:

 

9. Bold up the Longhorn and its peg first (leave loose for adjustment).

 

10. I bought new metric bolts 1/2 in longer to mount the entire bracket to the frame.

 

11. You will need spacers between your new "system" and the frame - this allows the bottom of your new bracket to hit the frame at the bottom and also keep your mount - tight at the top. I just slipped a couple of larger nuts over the bolts for the dry run. But have since bought spacers.

 

12. Everything should bolt up well and as you can tell from the pictures - this adds a new variable passenger position with about a 5 1/2 in drop. (If you need more forward as well as the drop - just slide the botton angle-iron piece more to the front of the bike before you weld them together.

 

Will add more as I make the other side and smooth them all out for paint.

 

Shep

Edited October 12, 2008 by Shep

[juggler]

I'd like to help, but I do not have the ability or shop to fabricate parts. I really wish I did have a machine shop.

 

I've tried several options and as you may have read, nothing has worked. We really need someone to design a new mounting bracket for the stock boards.

[Jercoupe]

That looks good Shep. Im curious if you really gain much strength from welding the bracket to the back of the exsisting floorboard bracket rather than just "sandwich" it between. i do have a little flex in the new pegs but its wasnt much more than the exsisting floorboards flex anyway. My wife always uses the floorboards to get on the bike anyway then she will use her pegs when she gets tired of that position with a simple kick up if the floorboards. There is also a limit on how far down you can extend the longhorn brackets. I have mine 4" from the top of the exsiting floorboard to the top of the new peg. Her peg scrapes a split second before mine does in a tight turn. I should probably move it up to 3 1/2".

[BigBoyinMS]

I have the exact opposite problem from most of you. I need them to go back and up a bit for my wifey. As I like to keep my mods where it's easy to go back to stock, it looks like some 1" flat stock, some welding and a few holes would take care of me. Basically make an extension to bolt in place of the floorboard and bolt the floor board to the extension. My only problem is that since changing jobs I don't have access to a welder. Well, without having to pay and paying is no fun!

[juggler]

I have the exact opposite problem from most of you. I need them to go back and up a bit for my wifey. As I like to keep my mods where it's easy to go back to stock, it looks like some 1" flat stock, some welding and a few holes would take care of me. Basically make an extension to bolt in place of the floorboard and bolt the floor board to the extension. My only problem is that since changing jobs I don't have access to a welder. Well, without having to pay and paying is no fun!

 

 

Well the the Barons Short Boards would most likely help you out. The really raise the foot position by 1.5 inches and the adjustable short boards move forward and backwards.

Edited October 13, 2008 by juggler

[Guest Shep]

That looks good Shep. Im curious if you really gain much strength from welding the bracket to the back of the exsisting floorboard bracket rather than just "sandwich" it between. i do have a little flex in the new pegs but its wasnt much more than the exsisting floorboards flex anyway. My wife always uses the floorboards to get on the bike anyway then she will use her pegs when she gets tired of that position with a simple kick up if the floorboards. There is also a limit on how far down you can extend the longhorn brackets. I have mine 4" from the top of the exsiting floorboard to the top of the new peg. Her peg scrapes a split second before mine does in a tight turn. I should probably move it up to 3 1/2".

 

Yeah - my wife's floorboard hit tonight in a sharp turn (just a little)...

 

I am going to reinforce mine a bit with a strut on the bottom side. I will post a pic when it is completed.. I was going to get everything done today - but it was just too nice of a day here in Phoenix not to ride.

[BigBoyinMS]

Well the the Barons Short Boards would most likely help you out. The really raise the foot position by 1.5 inches and the adjustable short boards move forward and backwards.

 

Thanks! I'll check it out!