Stator Question

[6pak]

The moneypit has about 87000 miles on it. Is there a time limit on the life of the stator? Will be painting starting this weekend, and want to know if I should replace it before putting the bike back together.

Also, is there anything else I should look at while it's stripped down?

Any advice?

[Gearhead]

IMHO, stators just go when they feel like it. Might have to do with the climates they are run in over the years. Some say it depends on the electrical loads placed on them over time, although I'm not sure about that. If it ain't broke, I wouldn't fix it.

 

Just my 2 cents.

Jeremy

[Ndiaz]

I agree with Gearhead. For 9 years I owned a 1984 Suzuki GS1100GK, a series of models notorious for fried stators and/or regulators/rectifiers.

 

I sold it two months ago with a total of 132,000 miles, all but 25,000 were mine. The stator was the original, as was the reg/rect.

 

I attribute this longevity in such fragile electrical parts to a few factors (not necessarily in this order):

1. Luck.

2. Clean connections at all times.

3. Never starting and running the bike with a low battery. Trickle charger on whenever I didn't ride for more than 2 or 3 days.

4. Running the h out of this Suzuki, long and hard.

 

I suspect that, if I continue caring for my "new" 1988 Venture the same way I did for the Suzuki, the original stator will last me a long time.

 

Then, again, luck sometimes plays in -- although people often make their own luck.

 

Nick Diaz

Middletown, MD

[6m459]

I blame the electrical load of some heated gloves for the demise of my stator last year.

 

http://www.orbitonline.ca/~bjh/rmstator/P0002376-650.jpg

 

In this PIC, you can see the old stator on the right, a used OEM one from ebay in the middle (and an aftermarket one on the LHS).

 

Notice how toasted the old one looks compared to the replacement used OEM one? I think that the extra current through the stator going to the gloves, about 2 amps, was enough to slowly kill off the original stator with heat.

 

I have resolved not to use those gloves again till I buy or build a controller to limit their current draw. Its one of those back burner projects, you know?

 

Hope this is of interest and of some help to someone.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont.

[Rocket]

I blame the electrical load of some heated gloves for the demise of my stator last year.

 

 

Notice how toasted the old one looks compared to the replacement used OEM one? I think that the extra current through the stator going to the gloves, about 2 amps, was enough to slowly kill off the original stator with heat.

 

I have resolved not to use those gloves again till I buy or build a controller to limit their current draw. Its one of those back burner projects, you know?

 

Hope this is of interest and of some help to someone.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont.

 

Do you know if the stator cooling mod was installed into your bike, if not, that could have been the cause. This mod was a new rotor bolt with a larger hole & a formed wire that goes inside the bolt, is supposed to keep the hole from clogging up. The mod was done by dealers & a new stator was also installed at that time. This was for the 83, not sure on how many other years they had to modify, prior to being a regular production installed item.

 

A 2 amp load should not have any effect by itself, what other extras are in use???

[GeorgeS]

Few years back I was reading thru the " Electrix " information. They claimed that they use a Higher Quality Insulation material on the Wires.

 

On my 89 Stock Stator, only the lower coils were Blackened. So only One of the 3 phases, had dropped the AC output level, to about 20 percent of normal voltage.

 

As stated above, the current draw from heated gloves would not be enough to cause this, unless there were other items adding to the total current draw. I would suspect bad wireing between stator and regulator. Or possible the Regulator itself, or a battery with an internal failure causing high current draw.

 

Check the 3 Phase AC voltage, level a couple times a year on your stator, and its easy to stay ahead of this situation. If one Phase starts dropping in voltage level, you might as well order your new stator, as its just a matter of time ---

[Gearhead]

I've asked this before, but doesn't the stator put out it's maximum for any given RPM all the time? The excess is dumped to ground thru the regulator. Thus, a heavy electrical load shouldn't affect stator life.

 

Jeremy

[pegscraper]

The regulator is a voltage regulator, to keep from overcharging the battery. The current is not limited. The stator will put out whatever amperage the load demands, up to its output limit.

[MikeM8560]

I've asked this before, but doesn't the stator put out it's maximum for any given RPM all the time? The excess is dumped to ground thru the regulator. Thus, a heavy electrical load shouldn't affect stator life.

 

Jeremy

Im no expert but mine goese up and down voltagewise from idle to cruising

[ChurchBuilder]

Cut your white plastic connector out and solder your wires together. I think dirty connections toasted my stator.

[6m459]

Do you know if the stator cooling mod was installed into your bike, if not, that could have been the cause. This mod was a new rotor bolt with a larger hole & a formed wire that goes inside the bolt, is supposed to keep the hole from clogging up.

 

Yes this wire thingy is installed. Confirmed this myself when I did the starter clutch. As it represents at least an 80% blockage in the hole itself, I don't understand how its supposed to provide any more or less cooling, but it IS there.

 

A 2 amp load should not have any effect by itself

 

2 amps = 24 watts remember. How many watts is the stock stator capable of delivering and how much spare capacity is there over stock demand? I'll bet 24 watts is a BIG fraction of the spare capacity.

 

Brian H. C.E.T.

[Rocket]

 

2 amps = 24 watts remember. How many watts is the stock stator capable of delivering and how much spare capacity is there over stock demand? I'll bet 24 watts is a BIG fraction of the spare capacity.

 

Brian H. C.E.T.

It is nothing compared to a pair of 55 watt driving lights (110 watts), in use for night time riding... I need to run them on my scoot.

[6m459]

It is nothing compared to a pair of 55 watt driving lights (110 watts), in use for night time riding... I need to run them on my scoot.

 

 

 

I'd like more light too but the condition of the old stator put me off adding any.

[Gearhead]

Pretty sure the manual lists charging capacity at 30A at 5k rpm or so. At 12V that is 360W, at 14V that is 420W.

 

Don't know the bike's power consumption; that has been the subject of some debate. My anecdotal evidence shows that the bike with the radio on draws around 20A, maybe a little less. I say this because:

1. I always ride with the radio on.
   
2. Having added (2) 55W lights to mine, it seems to keep up, charging-wise, but it's questionable if I'm in stop-and-go (low engine speeds, brake lights).
   
3. I also added 3 amps worth of heated grips, the system has no problem with those.
   
4. Run them both, however, and after awhile the engine won't start because the batt is slowly depleted. It might keep up if I'm on the freeway consistently, not sure.
   
5. My charging system checks out OK and, thank God, I've had no stator issues...yet...
   

To clarify my question about the stator always putting out full amperage: of course that varies with RPM - more RPM = more amperage. The regulator unit also contains the rectifier, changing AC stator output to DC. In keeping the voltage down to reasonable levels, it must get rid of any excess current. A car alternator has a electromagnet armature that gets power thru brushes. When demand is great, the regulator increases voltage to the armature so the magnet is stronger, making more power in the stator. Conversely, to cut output it decreases the armature voltage so less power is produced in the stator. On our Ventures the armature is a permanent magnet, so the stator is always putting out all the power (volts and amps) it can. The regulator / rectifier dumps the excess to ground to control the voltage. Thus the question - does electrical load on the bike, in any way, change the stator current, or is it purely a function of RPM?

 

Jeremy

[Squeeze]

... does electrical load on the bike, in any way, change the stator current, or is it purely a function of RPM?

 

Jeremy

 

No, electrical Load doesn't change a Bit the Current the Stator is producing. The Current only is changing due to different RpM. So to speak, Rpm is above 3000, Stator is pushing full Amount of AC Current out to the R/R. The Rectifier converts the AC to DC, the Regulator sense the System Voltage and cuts excessive Current down to Ground. End of the Story.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I've asked this before, but doesn't the stator put out it's maximum for any given RPM all the time? The excess is dumped to ground thru the regulator. Thus, a heavy electrical load shouldn't affect stator life.

 

Jeremy

 

First part, yes, second part, no.

 

The stator is putting out its max for any given RPM whenever the motor is turning. And yes, excess current is shunted to ground thru the regulator, which acts as a load, using whatever is not used by the bike's lights, accessories, and ignition systems.

 

But adding too much load, in other words, past what the stator can do, will damage the stator, sooner or later.

 

A 2 amp draw from occasionally using a pair of heated gloves is probably not the culprit here. Unless the stator was already past its max, due to other loads that put the stator at its limit.