Iowa Guy Posted October 8, 2008 #1 Posted October 8, 2008 I got a leak from the oil plug. I don't know if it is the plug or the oil pan threads that are stripped but I would assume that it is the oil pan threads. What do I have to do to fix this? I have a 8 hr trip to Sioux City planned for Friday. Iowa Guy
BoomerCPO Posted October 8, 2008 #2 Posted October 8, 2008 A Metric Tap and Die set will work hopefully. Use the proper tap in the hole and use the proper die to cleanup/chase the threads on the oil bolt. After this you can try wrapping the bolt with a bit of teflon tape when you re-install the bolt. If this does not stop the leak you may want to consider getting a new oil pan and bolt. Just my 2 cents..........
Snarley Bill Posted October 8, 2008 #3 Posted October 8, 2008 you can get a self tapping plug at an auto parts store, for a temporary fix. take your old plug in and they will fix you up. i would replace the pan or remove it and have it drilled and tapped for an oversize plug.what ever you do fix it right.
FJR Rider Posted October 8, 2008 #4 Posted October 8, 2008 Just in case, and especially if the threads on the drain plug look okay, replace the crush washer (or add one if none there). Leak could be as simple as a bad crush washer .. at least worth a look and try. Curt
hipshot Posted October 8, 2008 #5 Posted October 8, 2008 i would also wrap the plug a couple of wraps, with YELLOW Teflon tape. it is made for "natural gas connections", and is just a little bit thicker than regular plumbing Teflon tape. then i would check into mabey a helicoil and a new crush washer. hope you find a fix. just jt
Steve S Posted October 9, 2008 #7 Posted October 9, 2008 I got a leak from the oil plug... Iowa Guy It is very unliklely that the threads are stripped unless someone has been wild with the wrenching, so please don't assume anything. Before you go buy any extra parts and tools, simply check to see if the plug is loose. Very gently tighten it and make sure it seats firmly. If it does, drain the oil and inspect the threads on the plug. If they are OK, replace the brass or alunium crush washer with a new one. The new washer will be soft when it seats so you may have to tighten the plug just a little extra. Fill her up with oil and check for leaks. if you dont have any leaks just "RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT"... Good luck
Ferrantelli Posted October 9, 2008 #8 Posted October 9, 2008 It is very unliklely that the threads are stripped unless someone has been wild with the wrenching, so please don't assume anything. Before you go buy any extra parts and tools, simply check to see if the plug is loose. Very gently tighten it and make sure it seats firmly. If it does, drain the oil and inspect the threads on the plug. If they are OK, replace the brass or alunium crush washer with a new one. The new washer will be soft when it seats so you may have to tighten the plug just a little extra. Fill her up with oil and check for leaks. if you dont have any leaks just "RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT"... Good luck I agree with Steve. Just do all of it with care, before you may end up creating a problem when there wasn't one. If all else fail and you have a striped plug buy a new one, if it is the pan then I would try a TIME-SERT follow the link. http://www.timesert.com/index.html
flb_78 Posted October 9, 2008 #9 Posted October 9, 2008 If there is a leak, I would check to see if the sealing ring fell off at the last change. If it's still there, then I would assume that the pan is stripped. Im sure the steel plug is more durable then the aluminum pan. I don't think the pan is thick enough to helicoil. I would remove the pan and drill the hole clean to rethread it to the next size. Actually, I would do it at work and pick the bike up with our 10 ton overhead hoist.
Skid Posted October 9, 2008 #10 Posted October 9, 2008 Is the crush washer still there? Sometimes it will stick to the pan and fall off into the oil pan without you noticing it....
Iowa Guy Posted October 9, 2008 Author #11 Posted October 9, 2008 crush washer is still there and the plug will not tighten up. When I removed it and drained the oil the plug looked okay. Tomorrow, I take the plug in to the auto parts store and get a self tapping plug that has a smaller plug inside it that can be removed to drain oil at the next change. If that fails, I will also buy a rubber plug to make the trip this weekend and then start looking for a used oil pan. thanks so much for all the input. Iowa Guy
Condor Posted October 9, 2008 #12 Posted October 9, 2008 Buy a second gen and ride. Mike wants to sell his 2ndGen for $2500.....
Condor Posted October 9, 2008 #13 Posted October 9, 2008 crush washer is still there and the plug will not tighten up. When I removed it and drained the oil the plug looked okay. Tomorrow, I take the plug in to the auto parts store and get a self tapping plug that has a smaller plug inside it that can be removed to drain oil at the next change. If that fails, I will also buy a rubber plug to make the trip this weekend and then start looking for a used oil pan. thanks so much for all the input. Iowa Guy Put some lock-tite on that replacement plug. Dumping all your oil all over the road and your back tire might not be a good thing at 70mph.... There is a company that makes a replacement kit for the oil plug, but for the life of me I can't locate their website. It pricy, and replacing the pan would be a cheaper way to go.
Iowa Guy Posted October 13, 2008 Author #14 Posted October 13, 2008 Thanks to all for the feedback. I bought a $5 oversized replacement plug and screwed it right in and so far... no drips, runs, or errors. I will continue to keep track of it each time that I ride. Once again good advice here has saved me big money. Iowa Guy
Iowa Guy Posted July 16, 2012 Author #15 Posted July 16, 2012 So the over-sized plug worked for awhile but now it too is stripped out. I can't get a double over-sized plug. I could use the kit from Time-Sert as recommended or I could replace the oil pan. Is it much of a job to replace the oil pan? Iowa Guy
Rick Haywood Posted July 16, 2012 #16 Posted July 16, 2012 Not to change the subject but is the 2nd gen suppose to have a crush washer? Mine doesn't and I does not have any leaks. Been that way for about 55,000 miles
Flyinfool Posted July 16, 2012 #17 Posted July 16, 2012 So the over-sized plug worked for awhile but now it too is stripped out. I can't get a double over-sized plug. I could use the kit from Time-Sert as recommended or I could replace the oil pan. Is it much of a job to replace the oil pan? Iowa Guy 4 years is a pretty good while. A heli coil or a timesert or several other brands of thread repair will work. It is not the threads that do the sealing. It is the washer on the plug that does the sealing. So a leak does not mean bad threads. Does the plug still thread in and tighten up? If so then you just need a new sealing washer on it. If you are going to do a repair insert, check the thickness of the pan at the drain hole to see if there is enough thickness for whichever insert you chose. When you drill and tap for the insert, coat the drill and the tap with grease to catch and hold the chips, use a very slow speed. once you are done with all of the metal cutting pour the old drain oil back thru the engine to flush out any chips that may be lurking. Good luck, keep us posted. Rick; Sorry, I know nothing about them there new fangled bikes like yours.
BigBoyinMS Posted July 16, 2012 #18 Posted July 16, 2012 I'm going to second getting a TIMESERT kit. We use the 14mm kit at the Honda car dealer I work at to repair aluminum oil pan drain plug holes and it works great. And it isn't like a helicoil, it's more like a threaded hole liner and it has a lip that puts it at the correct depth. A complete kit is around $175 but I figure a whole heck of a lot cheaper than the lower case and labor.
BigBoyinMS Posted July 16, 2012 #19 Posted July 16, 2012 Not to change the subject but is the 2nd gen suppose to have a crush washer? Mine doesn't and I does not have any leaks. Been that way for about 55,000 miles It is supposed to have an aluminum washer from the factory. Sometimes they stick to the plug and seem not to be there. I work at a Honda car dealer so I use the Honda 14mm washers (a little thicker) part# 94109-14000.
Flyinfool Posted July 16, 2012 #20 Posted July 16, 2012 You can find kits cheap (less expensive?) on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Time-sert-oil-drain-plug-kit-1415A-Volkswagen-Chrysler-M14-x-1-50-Metric-/330762353914?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4d02f8fcfa&vxp=mtr I am not sure of the size, this is just an example.
MasterGuns Posted July 16, 2012 #21 Posted July 16, 2012 So the over-sized plug worked for awhile but now it too is stripped out. I can't get a double over-sized plug. I could use the kit from Time-Sert as recommended or I could replace the oil pan. Is it much of a job to replace the oil pan? Iowa Guy I think your best bet would be to replace the entire oil pan/bottom cover. I just looked at mine (an 86) and I bet it can be accomplished without much more than pulling the pan without anything else. I remember reading on here somewhere, it is quite easy.
dacheedah Posted July 16, 2012 #22 Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) Yes to the crush washer part#15 here 214-11198-01-00 , it will get about half it's thickness when tightened ( 31 ft lbs) and stick to the bolt head. Part is less than $2.00. Edited July 16, 2012 by dacheedah
DragonRider Posted July 16, 2012 #23 Posted July 16, 2012 What year is your bike, I have an extra oil pan from the motor that Masterguns donated to me, its yours for the shipping if it will fit. It is from an 86.
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