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Posted

Hey folks, help me out here. You guys seem to be of a very savvy generation who might know how to revert back to the "good ol' days" with your technical know-how. I want to take a severe shortcut to set up turn signals on a very old Yammy that is devoid of any modern electrical components.

I'd really like to put the required turn signals on it by simply going from the battery, through the handlebar switch, to the blinker can, and straight to the bulbs. Why wouldn't that work? I did it using motorcycle and auto 3-prong blinker cans and all I get is a buzz and too much heat in the heavy duty wires.

However, the proper lights will shine when the turn signal switch is moved left or right, but no blink. Just the buzz and heat. What do you think gives here other than me being a complete idiot who does not deserve my sweet little '85 VR?

Posted

This is just a guess, but you may not be pulling enough amps to make the breaker work. Instead of seperating they are trying to work and just buzzing. Maybe a higher rated bulb???

Posted

First there should be a fuse right off the battery. Your risking a fire without one.

 

The blinker should be next between the fuse and the switch. Otherwise if is after the switch you will need two. One in the circuit going to the left lights another to the right lights.

 

A standard blinker needs to have the current of two or more good lamps going through it. The basic relay type use the heat from the lamp current to open and close. Not blinking with low current is a designed in function. They are intended to stop blinking when a lamp burns out. The steady turn indication on your cars dash is an indication of the burned out light. Check for a "heavy duty" solid state flasher at your local hobby type auto parts store. It should carry a warning on the package with something to do with your burned out lamp indication will no longer work with that flasher.

 

If you used a decent size wire I don't understand the heat. Check to be sure there are no shorts and you have the correct pin of the flasher grounded.

 

Hope this helps.

Jerry

Posted

You mention a 3 prong flasher. The standard flasher is 2 prongs. The 3 prong unit has 1 prong going to a very lightweight circuit for the dash indicator lamps. Hooking to that prong with a full load is bad ju-ju. Check out a 550/552 vs. a 536 flasher. Oh, watch out for the occasional flasher from the cop/fire folks. It is 3 prongs but does the wig-wag alternating deal. Your idea should work well. 2 bulbs (1156 size) running at once on a standard duty flasher should be fine. Flasher between fuse and switch is the correct spot.

 

JB

Posted
There may be variations in the 3 prong flashers. The ones I have worked with have been a ground one of the pins along with 12 volts in and out to the lamp. The connection to the bulb in the center of the three. The two side ones vary on which is power and ground with at least two different series.

Here is a nice little article with flasher part numbers.

Jerry

 

Man, you guys came through again! I failed to mention the fuse, but I always use them. I'm using 4 bulbs and a 550 flasher. I guess the prongs were wired wrong (hot vs. ground maybe). I'll try it again with all these great tips in mind. Thanks again guys (and gals?)!

Posted
You mention a 3 prong flasher. The standard flasher is 2 prongs. The 3 prong unit has 1 prong going to a very lightweight circuit for the dash indicator lamps. Hooking to that prong with a full load is bad ju-ju. Check out a 550/552 vs. a 536 flasher. Oh, watch out for the occasional flasher from the cop/fire folks. It is 3 prongs but does the wig-wag alternating deal. Your idea should work well. 2 bulbs (1156 size) running at once on a standard duty flasher should be fine. Flasher between fuse and switch is the correct spot.

 

JB

 

The flasher I used is the 550. So, are you saying one of these prongs is for an indicator light? Which one would that be? I might try a 2 prong just to be safe. Thanks man! And don't forget, "Smoke by day and light by night." Been there, done that.

Posted (edited)

Look on the flasher. The terminals are probably something like this:

 

L for load (turn bulbs here)

P for pilot (dash indicator light)

X or something else (input 12vdc)

 

On a 3 prong unit, you shouldn't find a ground. Although variations are great. THe ground terminal types are usually on an asian imports. You can go to www.grote.com and navigate to the 2006 full line catalog listings. There is a PDF page for flashers. I didn't put the direct link because it is about 5mb. It shows the various possibilities. On that 550 just find the load and 12vdc input. the pilot could be left blank. I would use the pilot circuit myself. Run it to a small LED and it will blink when the turn signal is active. Won't tell which direction, but it will keep the 20 mile turn blink from happening. The output from the pilot is only capable of running something akin to a 194 bulb.

 

JB

Edited by lonestarmedic
Posted
Look on the flasher. The terminals are probably something like this:

 

L for load (turn bulbs here)

P for pilot (dash indicator light)

X or something else (input 12vdc)

 

On a 3 prong unit, you shouldn't find a ground. Although variations are great. THe ground terminal types are usually on an asian imports. You can go to http://www.grote.com and navigate to the 2006 full line catalog listings. There is a PDF page for flashers. I didn't put the direct link because it is about 5mb. It shows the various possibilities. On that 550 just find the load and 12vdc input. the pilot could be left blank. I would use the pilot circuit myself. Run it to a small LED and it will blink when the turn signal is active. Won't tell which direction, but it will keep the 20 mile turn blink from happening. The output from the pilot is only capable of running something akin to a 194 bulb.

 

JB

BINGO! Hey, even I can understant that! Can't tell you, and all the other guys, how much I appreciate ya'll taking time to educate me. THANK YOU!

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