hkd51 Posted October 3, 2008 #1 Posted October 3, 2008 I have to remove the rear wheel on my RSV and have the tire changed. I have the jack stand adaptor with legs but from pics I have seen I think I have to go quite high up in order to get the rear wheel off. I am some what concerned about going this high up, any advise? Harry
sarges46 Posted October 3, 2008 #2 Posted October 3, 2008 You do have to get the wheel from under the fender and or hitch so that takes you up there a little. The adaptor is the cats meow from what I;ve heard. Its the most stabil thing going. I wouldnt worry too much. Get some tie downs and lash them to the frame and the jack...that might make it seem more sturdy for you. Without the adaptor it is quit the adventure getting the bike up there...I wondered when it would fall....but it sat on the jack for over three days while I was waiting for the shop to mount a new tire for me.
hillrider Posted October 3, 2008 #3 Posted October 3, 2008 I don't have the jack adapter. What I do is strap the handlebars to the sides of the shop ( 20x40) and place a small rolling jack under the shock. Jack the puppy up so high you could drive a truck under it.
Billet Posted October 3, 2008 #4 Posted October 3, 2008 Both times I have had the rear wheel off, I removed the trunk and fender. Took about 2 hours first time and only an hour the second time. Sure makes the wheel easy and gives you a chance to clean everything really good. Call me a little anal but I don't trust my Harbor Junk jack that much
2WHEELSFORME Posted October 3, 2008 #5 Posted October 3, 2008 Ouote: "Call me a little anal" Well then you are a little anal! Jack the bike up and take out the wheel already!
KiteSquid Posted October 3, 2008 #6 Posted October 3, 2008 I put mine up on my Harbor Freight jack and took the rear wheel off, but I only jacked it high enough so I had to tip the tire a little sideways to get it out. I also strapped the bike to the jack.
Jethroish Posted October 3, 2008 #7 Posted October 3, 2008 I took mine off using my Sears jack. I used a set of tiedown straps on the handlebars up to a set of bike hooks on the garage ceiling. Althought the hooks are in 2x4s, but I highly doubt they would have held if the jack failed. Made me feel a little better though. And the bike did not wobble any on the jack.
hkd51 Posted October 5, 2008 Author #8 Posted October 5, 2008 Thanks for your replies! I removed the wheel on my 83 Venture once but if I remember right the fender on the 83 was in two parts so the back half could be removed so that you don't have to go so high in the air. Talk about a whale out of water, these things really start to sway when they are held that high off the ground. Harry
flb_78 Posted October 5, 2008 #9 Posted October 5, 2008 It easier to just push the bike over on it's side and pull it out that way.
Sgtglenn Posted October 5, 2008 #11 Posted October 5, 2008 Using my Craftsman lift - I deflate the tire and wigggle it out from the swingarm. Works with no problems of great effort.
BigBoyinMS Posted October 5, 2008 #12 Posted October 5, 2008 I used 2x4 blocks on my Harbor Freight jack and ended up having it sit there for a week. It was totally stable. And when I was moving the tire around trying to get it out I actually moved the bike and jack as one unit.
GunnyButch Posted October 5, 2008 #13 Posted October 5, 2008 The frame adaptor with legs that Carbon One builds makes it easy.
1BigDog Posted October 5, 2008 #14 Posted October 5, 2008 I use my Sears jack raised all the way up to remove my tire. Before I had the Carbon One adapter I used the old tried and true method....hockey pucks! The adapter is much better though. once the jack is properly centered I raise it into position then set it down on its lock bar into the top notch. I then strap the bike to the jack. Remove both mufflers and I usually remove the frame that rides under the saddlebags. Caliper comes off and bungied to the side. I then take a car floor jack, coming in from the right side, raise it under the rear tire just till it touches. you can then pull the wheel off of the hub and onto the jack, rather than wrestling it down. Once it clears you can now lower it down. A little finagling and its clear of the bike. Just reverse the jack thing for installation. Sure beats humping that heavy rear wheel back into position. Nows the time to clean and lube the hub. I have had this bike raised so many times and it has always been stable. Both wheels off, swingarm off, etc with no issues. A little common sense applies here. I mean, dont plan on having a wrestling match on the raised bike. If your determined enough, you can knock it off the lift. One advantage of the Sears jack is that it has these stablizing bolts on either side and once raised you turn these down for ground contact.
N3FOL Posted March 10, 2009 #15 Posted March 10, 2009 I also have the Carbon One jack adapter with legs. With the jack centered, if I remove just the Rear Wheel and raise it high enough to clear the Rear fender to remove...will the bike tip over and fall to the front? This may be my worst nightmare in the garage.
Jethroish Posted March 10, 2009 #16 Posted March 10, 2009 I also have the Carbon One jack adapter with legs. With the jack centered, if I remove just the Rear Wheel and raise it high enough to clear the Rear fender to remove...will the bike tip over and fall to the front? This may be my worst nightmare in the garage. It should not, but... to be safe, I used the mounting brackets of my overhead garage door opener. If you have a set of tie down straps go from the handlebars to the ceiling brackets to help stabilize the bike. Worked fine for me.
StarFan Posted March 10, 2009 #17 Posted March 10, 2009 I also have the Carbon One jack adapter with legs. With the jack centered, if I remove just the Rear Wheel and raise it high enough to clear the Rear fender to remove...will the bike tip over and fall to the front? This may be my worst nightmare in the garage. No, it will not tip over to the front. I recently had to put a new rear fender on my bike and the bike was perfectly stable on the adapter. It is though a good idea to strap the bike down to the jack, if not for anything else than feeling better/more secure. And like others have said then this is the time to grease the drive pins and the splines. I even took the drive shaft out and greased it also. Just start by jacking up the bike and secure it with straps and then remove the saddlebags, mufflers and the saddlebag/muffler support frame. Then everything is in the open and you can give the bike a thorough service/grease in the rear. Just remember to go by the service manual when adjusting the drive shaft. There is a tech article on this forum on how to do this. Good luck.
Cougar Posted March 10, 2009 #18 Posted March 10, 2009 Here ya go.. I did a write up on this about 2 years ago. I hope it will help you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 I am wondering of how many new folks we have here if very many know about the VRTECH button they can use to find out HOW to do stuff to these bikes? Jeff
N3FOL Posted March 11, 2009 #19 Posted March 11, 2009 It should not, but... to be safe, I used the mounting brackets of my overhead garage door opener. If you have a set of tie down straps go from the handlebars to the ceiling brackets to help stabilize the bike. Worked fine for me. Yes, I do have a set of Tie Down straps. I may opt to strap the bike on the jack instead...I am afraid my garage door opener is not strong enough to handle such weight.
N3FOL Posted March 11, 2009 #20 Posted March 11, 2009 No, it will not tip over to the front. I recently had to put a new rear fender on my bike and the bike was perfectly stable on the adapter. It is though a good idea to strap the bike down to the jack, if not for anything else than feeling better/more secure. And like others have said then this is the time to grease the drive pins and the splines. I even took the drive shaft out and greased it also. Just start by jacking up the bike and secure it with straps and then remove the saddlebags, mufflers and the saddlebag/muffler support frame. Then everything is in the open and you can give the bike a thorough service/grease in the rear. Just remember to go by the service manual when adjusting the drive shaft. There is a tech article on this forum on how to do this. Good luck. I have just a little over 3K miles on the bike. The rear tire still has a lot of life left. However, I do plan to grease the drive shaft splines sometime this summer. Questions: Do I have to drain the drive shaft final drive and remove the rear tire before I remove the shaft? Can I just keep the rear tire on and work on the shaft? Do I have to remove the rear muffler (left side) in order to work on the shaft?
N3FOL Posted March 11, 2009 #21 Posted March 11, 2009 Here ya go.. I did a write up on this about 2 years ago. I hope it will help you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 I am wondering of how many new folks we have here if very many know about the VRTECH button they can use to find out HOW to do stuff to these bikes? Jeff Thanks for the Link...Bookmarked it.
RedRider Posted March 11, 2009 #22 Posted March 11, 2009 I have just a little over 3K miles on the bike. The rear tire still has a lot of life left. However, I do plan to grease the drive shaft splines sometime this summer. Questions: Do I have to drain the drive shaft final drive (No, but it a good idea to change out the fluid after the first 3000 miles anyway. Rear gear lube is cheap.) and remove the rear tire (Yes, it will make your job much easier) before I remove the shaft? Can I just keep the rear tire on and work on the shaft? Do I have to remove the rear muffler (left side) in order to work on the shaft (I don't recall, but I don't think I removed the muffler last time I did this)? Lube the drive pins while you are in there. Good luck. RR
KiteSquid Posted March 11, 2009 #23 Posted March 11, 2009 AND use Honda Moly60 for the splines (three places, both ends of the drive shaft and the splines that connect the pumpkin to the rear wheel) and the drive fingers on the "clutch, hub" (Service manul page 7-13 nuber 7 or in the Parts book page F2 refrence number 9) BTW page 7-91 says to use Moly on the drive shaft splines.
N3FOL Posted March 11, 2009 #24 Posted March 11, 2009 I do know the 'Splines on both ends of the drive shaft'. I may also know the 'splines that connect the pumpkin to the rear wheel'. But not really sure on the 'Drive Pins' and 'Drive Fingers to the Clutch Hub'. Looking at page 7-13 (Service Manual), I may have to remove the Final Drive cover in order to get to the 'Clutch Hub'??? Honda Moly60 will be in my 'To Buy' list as well. (probably only available through a moto dealer/shop)
KiteSquid Posted March 11, 2009 #25 Posted March 11, 2009 I do know the 'Splines on both ends of the drive shaft'. I may also know the 'splines that connect the pumpkin to the rear wheel'. Once you have the final drive off of the bike, the drive shaft will pull out of the tube. there are splines on the front of the drive shaft also.... But not really sure on the 'Drive Pins' and 'Drive Fingers to the Clutch Hub'. Looking at page 7-13 (Service Manual), I may have to remove the Final Drive cover in order to get to the 'Clutch Hub'??? No, it comes out after removing a large C clip. IIRC there is a photo essay in the VRTech section, and in the service manual. Regrettably I don't have time right now to look it up....soorry. Honda Moly60 will be in my 'To Buy' list as well. (probably only available through a moto dealer/shop) My local multi-brand dealer that carries Honda's had to order it as they did not have any on the shelf, that leads me to believe that the mechanics there do not use it....... therefore they will not touch my bike with any tool!!!!!!
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