Props Posted September 29, 2008 #1 Posted September 29, 2008 Need your help! Did a preventative stator change on my 89 VR getting ready for a 3000+ mile trip since the original stator had almost 60k miles on it and I run a lot of extra lights. Installed the new stator (high output) in under two hours and was feeling really good about it until I got back from a 30 minute ride and had oil dripping from the kickstand. The leak has definitively been isolated to the bottom most seam of the side cover (between the rearmost two bottom bolts) and is making a real mess. Have changed the gasket now 3 times... once without sealant and twice more with two different types of sealant (yamalube, RTV gasket sealer) applied with no luck. There are no cracks, scratches or dings, and both the side cover and case look square with a straight edge applied. This bike was tight and dry until the cases were split... and as an old aircraft mechanic leaks drive me CRAZY! Thinking about double gasketing... any other ideas? Thanks in advance for your help!
MasterGuns Posted September 29, 2008 #2 Posted September 29, 2008 I doubt it is your gasket leaking. Most likely the rubber plug the stator wires go through. This is the most problematic oil sealing device on the entire bike. I personally get stressed out every time I have to re-install the stator cover because of that doggone plug. You are going to have to take it back apart and really clean the part of the cover that plug interfaces with. I mean really clean all the oil away not only from the surface of the cover but from the plug itself. I just installed the same stator and the wires that came with the new stator did not fit snuggly through the three holes in that plug. So rather than take a chance with relying on any kind of sealant to seal the holes where the wires fit through the plug, I used a couple layers of heat shrink over the wires so they would fit tightly. I then used ample amounts of high heat rtv gasket maker and no leaks. Give it a try. Need your help! Did a preventative stator change on my 89 VR getting ready for a 3000+ mile trip since the original stator had almost 60k miles on it and I run a lot of extra lights. Installed the new stator (high output) in under two hours and was feeling really good about it until I got back from a 30 minute ride and had oil dripping from the kickstand. The leak has definitively been isolated to the bottom most seam of the side cover (between the rearmost two bottom bolts) and is making a real mess. Have changed the gasket now 3 times... once without sealant and twice more with two different types of sealant (yamalube, RTV gasket sealer) applied with no luck. There are no cracks, scratches or dings, and both the side cover and case look square with a straight edge applied. This bike was tight and dry until the cases were split... and as an old aircraft mechanic leaks drive me CRAZY! Thinking about double gasketing... any other ideas? Thanks in advance for your help!
Dano Posted September 29, 2008 #3 Posted September 29, 2008 Did you make sure to put the copper washer back on the bottom most bolt on the cover??? It will leak like a sieve if you don't, same as the middle gear cover right behind it. Dan
MikeM8560 Posted September 29, 2008 #4 Posted September 29, 2008 So how do you two like the stator? its the buckeye right? Master guns how long have you had it?
MasterGuns Posted September 29, 2008 #5 Posted September 29, 2008 So how do you two like the stator? its the buckeye right? Master guns how long have you had it? To be honest, I have had a hard time finding a difference. Before my last stator went Tango Uniform, my battery voltage at idle was usually around 13.65 now it around 13.85 or so. At 2000 rpms, it increases to just over 14.1 but that is with everything electrical on; high beam, two 35 watt driving lights, radio blaring, cb on, 6 front LEDs (WLED-5As wedge), 14 rear LEDs (WLED-Rs wedge), a white light LED license plate frame, the brake light on (also LED) and a 3.7 LED light bar on (3 on all the time and 7 more when brakes are activated). I purchased the highout stator, or what is proclaimed to be one anyway, from R&M Stator in Canada and so far, so good.
Props Posted September 29, 2008 Author #6 Posted September 29, 2008 Thanks a lot for the suggestions... responding to more than one here... Master Guns... The wires are dry... no seepage there. They were one of the first things I checked because of what I read on threads here. Dano... I don't recall any of the bolts in the side cover having a copper washer like the one on the middle gear cover. I am pretty meticulous when it comes to disassembly and remember distinctively that the middle gear cover had one... but must have missed the side cover... cause I know it definitely ain't there now! Is it the same washer that the MG cover uses?
GeorgeS Posted September 29, 2008 #7 Posted September 29, 2008 Three times--- New gasket each time. Last time I finally Went over the surfaces with a Small Block of hard wood covered with 600 grit Emory cloth. This time I used Permatex, Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker ( PX #82180 ) ( Black Tube ) Instructions state to give it 24 hours to set up. And do not tighten bolts enough to cause the stuff to squeezs out. The previous 3 Types of sealants, were setting up, before I could get the cover installed with ALL the Bolts properly torqued. I am estimateing it takes me about 45 min. to get both surfaces, covered with sealant, and the cover fully installed. So the sealant was getting hard before the job was finished. The above Stuff, ( #82180 permatex ) gave me over an hour to complete the job. This was the 4th time I had re installed the cover, and finally got the leaking stopped !! Anyway thats my 2 cents. Use new gasket, and the above permtex, and give it at least 24 hours before you re-install the Engine Oil. Also be sure ALL oil is drained, and NO Oil on the surfaces,
hipshot Posted September 29, 2008 #8 Posted September 29, 2008 Thanks a lot for the suggestions... responding to more than one here... Master Guns... The wires are dry... no seepage there. They were one of the first things I checked because of what I read on threads here. Dano... I don't recall any of the bolts in the side cover having a copper washer like the one on the middle gear cover. I am pretty meticulous when it comes to disassembly and remember distinctively that the middle gear cover had one... but must have missed the side cover... cause I know it definitely ain't there now! Is it the same washer that the MG cover uses? Michael. the copper washer, that dan spoke of, is for the very bottommost bolt. in reality, is is a "drain plug", which allows the small amount of oil , trapped in the stator housing to be drained out into a container , before you remove the cover.without that copper washer, you will never stop your oil leak. just jt
Props Posted September 30, 2008 Author #9 Posted September 30, 2008 I can't find the copper washer that Dan and JT have mentioned in the parts manual... so I ordered one for the Middle Gear case bolt and will install it with the gasket sealer George recommended. All the parts are supposed to be in Friday... so I should be able to report out on a successful reinstall by the end of the weekend. Thanks for all your help... frankly, if you guys suggested it, I would have been willing to dance around Old Blue with a sack of chicken bones around my neck if I thought it would cure this leak.
Condor Posted September 30, 2008 #10 Posted September 30, 2008 Just a thought.... If the leak still continues after all the great suggestions above, and the PO had previously used silicon to seal the cover, the metal surfaces might be suffering from silicon contamination. The first time around silicon works well as a sealant, but nothing sticks to silicon that has cured. Not even more silicon. It may be your problem??
Props Posted September 30, 2008 Author #11 Posted September 30, 2008 It didn't appear that the PO had the cover off before... and the gasket appeared original with no sign of any sealant whatsoever... it came off clean from both surfaces. So, when I went back with that first new gasket, I put it on dry and torqued it down. That copper washer theory still bugs me some... one because I know there wasn't one on there to begin with, and second because it isn't included in the parts manual. Please don't get me wrong... I am not doubting what at least two witness have shared at all... so I am definitely putting one on that lowest bolt position. My theory: I suspect that the factory might have had some trouble with cases leaking at that bolt location during the assembly process, and used the copper washer as an "on-line" fix that never made it into the manual. Believe me, I've been around manufacturing operations for a number of decades and guys on the line are a amazingly creative bunch when it comes to saving themselves from grief... I was one of 'em for a while!
Props Posted September 30, 2008 Author #12 Posted September 30, 2008 Did you torque the bolts to book specs when you used the sealant or something else?
Squeeze Posted September 30, 2008 #13 Posted September 30, 2008 I've never seen such a Washer on the Generator Cover on a Vmax or a MKII.
Venturous Randy Posted September 30, 2008 #14 Posted September 30, 2008 I've never seen such a Washer on the Generator Cover on a Vmax or a MKII. Ditto!!! I have had my side cover off several times and I have never seen a copper washer on any of the stator side cover bolts. RandyA
Condor Posted September 30, 2008 #15 Posted September 30, 2008 I've never seen such a Washer on the Generator Cover on a Vmax or a MKII. For what it's worth...me neither...
GeorgeS Posted September 30, 2008 #16 Posted September 30, 2008 Did you torque the bolts to book specs when you used the sealant or something else? Yes:-- But Don't go over. stay under a little, the let the stuff set up at least 24 hours with NO oil. Do final torqueing the next day. Also, what Condor Said, use emory cloth on both surfaces,
mbrood Posted September 30, 2008 #17 Posted September 30, 2008 (edited) The microfiche shows the gasket on the middle gear cover... nothing for the main left cover. Mine sure didn't have one. I used a THIN bead of yamabond4 on both sides of the gasket (used the pointy adapter off a tube of RTV and screwed it on the yamabond tube... and also REALLY cleaned and applied Yamabond on the wire holder blocks and around the wires... not much time but she isn't leaking a drop. Edited August 26, 2009 by mbrood
hipshot Posted October 1, 2008 #18 Posted October 1, 2008 i had to replace my starter clutch assembly, a couple of months ago, and BELIEVE me, MINE had a copper washer. don't know why some would and others wouldn't, but i can't make it disappear! lol just jt
MasterGuns Posted October 1, 2008 #19 Posted October 1, 2008 Hey Props, The brass washer that everyone on this thread is talking about does not go on the stator cover. The brass washer is suppose to be placed on the middle bottom allen head on the MIDDLE GEAR cover. I have an 88 and my bud has an 83 and both have the brass washer. Also I used to have an 86 and ditto. Just my two cents. Great your rubber plug on the stator cover wasn't leaking. I hate that thing.
Condor Posted October 1, 2008 #20 Posted October 1, 2008 i had to replace my starter clutch assembly, a couple of months ago, and BELIEVE me, MINE had a copper washer. don't know why some would and others wouldn't, but i can't make it disappear! lol just jt Maybe a previous owner or wrench put it on there by mistake????
GeorgeS Posted October 1, 2008 #21 Posted October 1, 2008 Bottom Center bolt, of the AFT Cover left side. Its actually an Oil Drain. After you Drain the oil, then take that bolt out, and you will get 2 or 3 more oz. of oil out of the Rear Section of the crank case. But there will still be some oil in there. If the Crush washer has never been replaced, good idea to get a new one.
Venturous Randy Posted October 1, 2008 #22 Posted October 1, 2008 Bottom Center bolt, of the AFT Cover left side. Its actually an Oil Drain. After you Drain the oil, then take that bolt out, and you will get 2 or 3 more oz. of oil out of the Rear Section of the crank case. But there will still be some oil in there. If the Crush washer has never been replaced, good idea to get a new one. If by AFT, you mean the small cover that covers the end of the gear assembly, there is no question about that cover having a drain and a bolt with a copper washer at the bottom hole. The statements here are about the bottom hole on the stator side cover having a drain hole and I do not believe it does. If it was not so late, I would go out in the garage and see if any of the tapped holes on the block have a drain. RandyA
Dano Posted October 1, 2008 #23 Posted October 1, 2008 Ahh, come on Randy, it'll only take a few minutes!!!!! (Half hour later...........) LOL Dan
GeorgeS Posted October 1, 2008 #24 Posted October 1, 2008 If by AFT, you mean the small cover that covers the end of the gear assembly, there is no question about that cover having a drain and a bolt with a copper washer at the bottom hole. The statements here are about the bottom hole on the stator side cover having a drain hole and I do not believe it does. If it was not so late, I would go out in the garage and see if any of the tapped holes on the block have a drain. RandyA This IS Correct !! None of the bolts of the Large, Forward, Stator Cover have a special crush washer. Only the Aft Cover.
Props Posted October 2, 2008 Author #25 Posted October 2, 2008 Since I REALLY want this to be the last time I pull this cover off for a LONG time, I just want to be sure about how you applied the Permatex... did you apply it one or BOTH sides of the new gasket? If you applied it to only one side... which one? She is all prepped awaiting the arrival of the new gasket... both mating surfaces have been hit with a block of 600 grit emory cloth and are, for the most part, as clean and smooth as a new baby's bottom...and have been wiped down several times with degreaser. Thanks again for your patient support!
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