DANJ Posted September 22, 2008 #1 Posted September 22, 2008 (edited) I think my stator is going or gone. New battery, and seems to stay charged, but volt meter is showing max 12 volts droping to 10 ideling at a stop with brake held. Meter shows what seems to be a full sweep from idle to 3000rpm, but shows about 2volts lower than it used to be. Any thoughts?? Also, Who has installed Buckeye's High Output stator and what if any differences have you had to deal with? Thanks, DJ P.S. Just figgered out how to attach a photo, if anybody cares. Edited September 26, 2008 by DANJ
Dragonslayer Posted September 22, 2008 #2 Posted September 22, 2008 I think my stator is going or gone. New battery, and seems to stay charged, but volt meter is showing max 12 volts droping to 10 ideling at a stop with brake held. Meter shows what seems to be a full sweep from idle to 3000rpm, but shows about 2volts lower than it used to be. Any thoughts?? Also, Who has installed Buckeye's High Output stator and what if any differences have you had to deal with? Thanks, DJMine's doing the same thing intermittenly, I'm about to go out and replace the voltage regulator to see what happens, I'll let you know.
GeorgeS Posted September 22, 2008 #3 Posted September 22, 2008 You should see, 13.6 to 14.1 volts DC at the + Bat terminal at about 2000 RPM. Also, at the Large White plug between the Stator, and the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, you can do the 3 Phase AC Voltage Check. Find the Plug, open it and inspect the 3 Connectors, clean them. ( If pins are burned up or damaged, best to just cut out the plug and splice the wires together ) With plug connected, engine running at 2000 rpm. Stick meter leads into ends of each of the 3 wires, and read AC voltage to ground. --- You should see, about, 6 to 14 volts AC ( AC, not DC ) to ground. ----- IF, one of the 3 readings is Substantially Lowere, then the other two, then , Yes, you need a new Stator. ( most likley this is what you will see ) Post the Three AC readings, after you take them !!
DANJ Posted September 23, 2008 Author #4 Posted September 23, 2008 (edited) Went home and got out the multi-meter, pulled the side cover and located the stator plug, which was obviously discolored on one of the connections. Started the scoot and set the idle with the choke at 2000rpm. Checked the bike side of the plug. #1 (top center) connection 1.8volts, #2 6.9volts and #3 7.1volts. Pulled the plug apart and found burnt connection on #1. Sprayed contact cleaner on both plugs and carved away what damaged material I could from connection#1. Dried out plug and put on some die-grease and reassembled. Restarted scoot and checked again from bike side of the harness. All three circuits were showing constant 6.9 to 7.2 volts. Checked at battery, system charging at 13.8volts. Meter on the bike working as before incident. I changed out the battery a couple of weeks ago as the light came on, and found 2 cells very low. From experience, I know that you can't depend on a battery that has gone dry, It was three years old and so replaced. Old battery proved to have 1 dead cell and one week cell. I believe this caused the stator to try to work too hard causing the plug to overheat and break the connection on #1. System seems to be working OK at this point. Mabey a temp fix. Will keep an eye on it and let ya'll know. Happy for now, Thanks for the support George Edited September 26, 2008 by DANJ add a photo
Venturous Randy Posted September 23, 2008 #5 Posted September 23, 2008 If you have another connection problem, cut it out and solder the matching wires together. Technically, any of the three wires on one side will work soldered to the other side. RandyA
utadventure Posted September 23, 2008 #6 Posted September 23, 2008 Dan- Glad you could fix your problem without having to change out the stator. What do you think about a breakfast M & E on Oct 11th. After I wouldn't mind taking a look at the new V-Star 950. Dave
DANJ Posted September 23, 2008 Author #7 Posted September 23, 2008 If you have another connection problem, cut it out and solder the matching wires together. Technically, any of the three wires on one side will work soldered to the other side. RandyA Thanks Randy, George just sent me similar advice along with some more interesting information to check out. I'm glad things have worked out so well so far as I wasn't looking forward to waiting for a new stator and tieing up my scoot for the last of the riding season. I may just solder the connection anyway as it seems to be a very vulnarable potential problem. Without this sight I'd still be scratchin' my head, and would have lost a couple weeks of riding. Ya'll are a great bunch of folks. Thanks again, DJ
DANJ Posted September 23, 2008 Author #8 Posted September 23, 2008 Dan- Glad you could fix your problem without having to change out the stator. What do you think about a breakfast M & E on Oct 11th. After I wouldn't mind taking a look at the new V-Star 950. Dave Thanks Dave, If I'm in town that weekend, I'd like the M&E idea. Might be leaving for Arizona 'bout then, but we'll pencil it in anyway just in case plans change. V-Star 950 HUH. Got the itch a little?? Got my eye on a 2000mm that may be coming down the pipe. We'll see. Need another scoot so I can take one down to Havasu. Hate missing the riding down there. We'll stay in touch. DJ
Gearhead Posted September 23, 2008 #9 Posted September 23, 2008 All connections on old bikes are suspect, but esp. ones that carry a lot of current most of the time. Other ones that cause people a lot of grief are the regulator DC plug (with red and black wires, near the one you messed with - clean it as well), the pickup coil connector in the same area and the TCI connector. NEVER assume you have a bad electrical part until you've thoroughly checked the connections! Jeremy
rhncue Posted September 23, 2008 #10 Posted September 23, 2008 Went home and got out the multi-meter, pulled the side cover and located the stator plug, which was obviously discolored on one of the connections. Started the scoot and set the idle with the choke at 2000rpm. Checked the bike side of the plug. #1 (top center) connection 1.8volts, #2 6.9volts and #3 7.1volts. Pulled the plug apart and found burnt connection on #1. Sprayed contact cleaner on both plugs and carved away what damaged material I could from connection#1. Dried out plug and put on some die-grease and reassembled. Restarted scoot and checked again from bike side of the harness. All three circuits were showing constant 6.9 to 7.2 volts. Checked at battery, system charging at 13.8volts. Meter on the bike working as before incident. I changed out the battery a couple of weeks ago as the light came on, and found 2 cells very low. From experience, I know that you can't depend on a battery that has gone dry, It was three years old and so replaced. Old battery proved to have 1 dead cell and one week cell. I believe this caused the stator to try to work too hard causing the plug to overheat and break the connection on #1. System seems to be working OK at this point. Mabey a temp fix. Will keep an eye on it and let ya'll know. Happy for now, Thanks for the support George Most of your statements are correct except about the battery putting extra strain on the stator. Actually, the stator is always putting out as much power as it can at all time at any particular rpm. That which is not used is sent to ground and converted to heat by the regulator. Dick
DANJ Posted September 23, 2008 Author #11 Posted September 23, 2008 All connections on old bikes are suspect, but esp. ones that carry a lot of current most of the time. Other ones that cause people a lot of grief are the regulator DC plug (with red and black wires, near the one you messed with - clean it as well), the pickup coil connector in the same area and the TCI connector. NEVER assume you have a bad electrical part until you've thoroughly checked the connections! Jeremy That's great advice Jeremy, I believe I'll be checking every plug I can find soon. Most of your statements are correct except about the battery putting extra strain on the stator. Actually, the stator is always putting out as much power as it can at all time at any particular rpm. That which is not used is sent to ground and converted to heat by the regulator. Dick Dick I that's good to know. It appears that a good regemine of inspection, cleaning and sealing is a real good idea. DJ
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