Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 #1 Posted September 18, 2008 Question to the experts. Is it possible, from lack of grease, for the Coupling Gear to wear enough to allow wobble of the drive shaft? This is not on my RSV but rather on my VStar 650. They are very similar in design. I have been having problems with a noise in the final drive. I disassembled everything (or so I thouhgt) and greased it. Turns out only half of the coulping gear got grease. Upon FULLY disassembling the unit, I grease the end of the drive shaft and the end of the pinion shaft. Upon doing so, the grease truned a nice rust color. After putting everything back together and the wheel on the bike, the "clicking" noise had subsided greatly. I ask about the wobble because there is a small but noticable groove half way round the drive shaft right about where the shaft goes through the housing. I am hoping that the engineers designed all this so that coupling gear ($18 part) would wear out first/fastest so to save the drive shaft ($125) from damage. Do I dare just replace the coupling gear and see if all "clicking" noise goes away? Sort of a one-piece-at-a-time approach?
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #2 Posted September 18, 2008 Sorry, tried to attach a parts view
KiteSquid Posted September 18, 2008 #3 Posted September 18, 2008 Did you use Honda Moly60 grease on the splines?
stardbog Posted September 18, 2008 #4 Posted September 18, 2008 For. Wobble side check spoke wires. As far I know 650 has spoke wheels and spokes get loose, that was reason for my friend 650 to wobble. Good luck
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #5 Posted September 18, 2008 For. Wobble side check spoke wires. As far I know 650 has spoke wheels and spokes get loose, that was reason for my friend 650 to wobble. Good luck None of the spokes feel loose, but I have not accutally taken a wrench to them yet. When I had the final drive off the bike, there seemed to be a lot of play between the drive shaft and the coupling gear. As for the grease used. The bike only has 10,300 miles. The rear tire was replace at about 8500 miles. What grease was used then, I am not sure. It was done a t a dealer. I have had this apart and together 5 or 6 times in the last couple weeks trying to diagnose this. Since beginning this process, the bike has only had 4 or 5 miles put on it. Given that, I have not used the Moly grease, but the litium wheel bearing grease I have on hand. Once I get everything fixed, I will use the Moly. Just don't want to go through a tube of pricey grease for all this trial and error. I cannot imagine that the type of grease will make a difference in this diagnosis process.
yamahamer Posted September 18, 2008 #6 Posted September 18, 2008 As far as the clicking did you put it back together without the wheel first to get it in line? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 I have done this to a friends bike to stop clicking noise and it worked.
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #7 Posted September 18, 2008 As far as the clicking did you put it back together without the wheel first to get it in line? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 I have done this to a friends bike to stop clicking noise and it worked. The entire final and drive shaft assembly was put back together before being remounted on the wheel. Yamaha says to leave the acorn nuts finger tight though, until the wheel is mounted on the bike. THEN, torque the axel nut, acorn nuts, then final mount bolts, all in that order.
Eck Posted September 18, 2008 #8 Posted September 18, 2008 Helpful info... Web link to many tech articles for your 650 V-star http://www.650ccnd.com/ht.htm Link to detailed Rear axle info.. http://www.650ccnd.com/shaft2.htm
KiteSquid Posted September 18, 2008 #9 Posted September 18, 2008 It CAN make a HUGE difference as lithium grease will be moved out of the way with as little as 20 Lbs of force. Molybdenum Disulphide will stay in place at pressures over 100,000 lbs. Sliding friction tests of MoS2 using a pin on disc tester at low loads (0.1-2 N) give friction coefficient values of Read the Spline Lubricants setcion of THIS article!!!!!!!!!
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #10 Posted September 18, 2008 Helpful info... Web link to many tech articles for your 650 V-star http://www.650ccnd.com/ht.htm Link to detailed Rear axle info.. http://www.650ccnd.com/shaft2.htm Seen all that and have made several posts on that site. I have gotten more responses and help off this site. I was planning on trailering the bike to the guy I have been working with on this to let him ride and hear the noise. To this point all he has seen is the final drive and drive shaft. I have checked the Ujoint and it is good and solid. Not loose or wobbling. Ah, the saga continues. But I should be a final drive expert after all this. LOL
Squeeze Posted September 18, 2008 #11 Posted September 18, 2008 Post up some Pics and we could to be helpful. Actually, i tried to picture your Description in the first Post, but i can't understand what your talking about. I'm a little familiar with the smaller Dimension Pumpkin and might offer an Opinion.
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #12 Posted September 18, 2008 here is the parts view from SatrMotorcycle's page
Squeeze Posted September 18, 2008 #13 Posted September 18, 2008 I know the exploded View of both Units, but i cannot compute 'coupling Gear', for Instance. There's a saying, a Pic says more than a thousand Words
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #14 Posted September 18, 2008 I know the exploded View of both Units, but i cannot compute 'coupling Gear', for Instance. There's a saying, a Pic says more than a thousand Words It is piece #27 in the parts view. It is the go between for the drive shaft and the input shaft. Coupling Gear is what Yamaha calls it. I did take the bike up to the shop and the service guy road it. Said he did not hear anything. So I got on it and did a circle in the parking lot. He heard it then. His thought is the same an mine. The coupler gear and maybe the the drive shaft are worn and sloppy. Especially since you can wiggle the drive shaft and difinetly tell that it is solid in the Ujoint. I decided to spend $150 for a new coupler, shaft and seals. If that don't do it, I am not going to keep piecing it. I'll just bit the bullet and buy a new final drive unit. Thanks for all the help and input.
KiteSquid Posted September 18, 2008 #15 Posted September 18, 2008 So, did you buy a tube of Moly60???????
Jethroish Posted September 18, 2008 Author #16 Posted September 18, 2008 So, did you buy a tube of Moly60??????? Yep. Had to pass a Honda dealer so I stopped and got a tube. I'll give that a try before I put the new parts in and see if there is a difference. When the new parts go in, they will get the Moly.
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