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83 Slave removal question.


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Hi there, New here. Nice to see so many people still riding these old bikes. I haven't had mine lit in 5 years for various issues.. not the least of which was the ridiculous prices wanted for insurance coverage.

 

Anyway... back to the bike. I just got the whole slave loose from the bike... not a problem. NOW I need to get it out of it's hiding place. Is there some magic? Will it drop down? ( Bike is on a frame lift right now and I haven't been able to get my hands in there ) or do I have to take that middle gear off? Please.... say it ain't so!

 

Thanks in advance for your help. I have a rear caliper and fork seals to tackle too plus cleaning the carbs which I KNOW need some de-gunking.

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It's a Japanese twist puzzle. Some remove the kickstand switch for more room but it's a combination of turn a little, lift a bit ,turn a little, lower a bit, etc. It WILL come out, it's just a trial, but once you start it rather "walks" right out... strangely it goes in easier but it's still a silly dance. Make sure the bolt heads are in good condition or replace them... they are so recessed, any buggered head will make the "next" removal a lot more expensive.

 

Check for corrosion on the piston and sleeve... if it's not too bad, they can be cleaned and a new seal kit installed. If in doubt, replace the unit. The cost of a new unit isn't THAT much more than the seal kit. It sits at the BOTTOM of the line so contamination and water corrosion take it's toll.

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I have been thinking of just swapping the whole unit. Trying to source some parts is getting to be very tough but I haven't talked to or searched the right areas just yet. I have had the bike since '87 and it has provided me many happy miles. I still have second gear. How cool is that? I did a reapint on it a few years ago and othr than the odd age related repairs, I have been happy with the bike. It's quick, comfortable but like any Yamaha... hates to start in the cold. My old Honda didn't care about temperature.

 

I'll fish the slave out in a day or so. I have work to deal with until then and then make the reseal/place decision after I can inspect it. Who do you use for the new unit anyway?

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Pull up most any Yamaha dealer's, website. You can access the IPC.

 

Most dealers will ship the parts. Or, just call to order the part.

 

I highly reccomend replaceing the Cylinder!! with new one. If bikes been sitting that long the corrosion in that cylinder is going to be pretty bad.

 

--- Be sure to drain the tank, and carb bowls !!!

 

Also be sure to rebuild the Master, use a kit on that.

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Mbrood has it right it is a pain to get out you can twist this way and that and not get it. SO take some time away come back relaxed and try again. NExt thing you know if will just fall out, on you.

 

Putting it back is just as much fun.

 

We are in Kitchener, but not sure where you are ? If your close and need a hand give us a shout.

 

Brad

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Yah, I got it... a few minutes ago. I knew it was a chinese puzzle but I had to walk away a couple of times. That neutral wire, the kick stand switch and the alternator wires were fun to get around.

 

once I got it out, I pulled the boot off the outer ring and all this.... goop came out. I had a look at the bore and it is scored to about .001 of an inch, all the way around. The piston was scored in odd places. I will be ordeing a new unit, for the bike, I mean.

 

What a mess. Next is to flush the line while waiting for the part and start to look at the carbs. Is there a kit for those, do you know? Or do I just start cleaning and see if the diaphrams are toast as I go? I'll work it out. Just thinking out loud.

 

That slave was a MESS though.

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What a mess. Next is to flush the line while waiting for the part and start to look at the carbs. Is there a kit for those, do you know? Or do I just start cleaning and see if the diaphrams are toast as I go? I'll work it out. Just thinking out loud.

 

That slave was a MESS though.

Nope, no carb kits, you need to order piece by piece. :080402gudl_prv:

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I might be O.K. I have to get the gunk out of them and go from there.

 

Would recomend tearing the carbs apart and cleaning piece by piece. Good carb cleaner and away you go. Replace or clean the fuel lines and remove and clean the petcock, in the same manner.

 

That gunk will cause you problems later. While putting it back together get some Seafoam from the auto parts store and poor a can into the tank of fuel and then fire it up.

 

There was a place up here that would acid bath the inside of the tank, then it was coated with a small layer of rubber. Cost me about 80 bucks on the first bike which sat for four years and it haunted me for awhile.

 

BRad

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Thanks, Brad.

 

Tank looks good with the scope so I should be O.K. there. It helps to leave it full when you park it. I have done that everytime I stored the bike for the winter. I have heard that I can get a light boil going in a pot with simple Green and drop the carbs in there for a couple of hours. I am told that this is an aggressive cleaner for this sort of thing and doesn't seem to harm rubber but I will pull the diaphrams first. I have a coleman stove and a donor pot. Not a problem. I am told that this will remove varnish and the like quite well and does not require a tear down. A flush with a good cleaner once reinstalled makes them good as new.

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