Poor mans paint job

OK, heres the deal. I got all the paintable covers off and need to make them one color. I hope to get some advice when painting them with a spray can. I sanded them and am repairing the broken parts. What is the best techniqe to use? I plan on priming them and sanding the primer with 1200 sand paper before shooting them with the can. after a couple of coats of base, I plan on 2 coats of clear.

Is this a good plan? I would love to take them to someone to have it done, but its just not in my budget.

Thanks for any advice....

Ron

if your useing a spray can. their is a black line up arrow, on the can, this gives you the best dirrect spray,

I would say, using a sweeping motion, 10 to 12 inches from parts. try the can that way first, then turn to tip alittle to the right and try it again. keep doing this until you find the best spray spread you like.

start from the bottom and work your way up, slightly over lapping the first line.

this keeps you from making runs. remember you WILL have to go over it again, so don't worry if you miss an area.

also shake the can for a minute or so, before you start spraying, and after each time you stop.

I wish I could be there to help you.

Call me if you need more information

954-430-9771

Mike

I just spray a Piece of Cardboard before i go over to my Parts.

Thereby, you can see if the Jet of the Rattlecan spits and you can adjust the best Distance for spraying.

I spray all Edges with two thin Layers prior to the Areas. Wait 10 Minutes than proceed. I make a Cross Pattern on every Pass, ie. first move from left to right and then immediately after you finished that, spray a second Pass from up to down. Then wait 10 Minutes and make a 3rd and 4th Pass.

Thanks guys, I think the spraying is gonna be OK. I am concerned about the finish, meaning the clear coat and making it shiney. I understand that if I spray 2 coats of clear and then sand it with the 1200, then buff it, it will be shinney? Is this correct?

I wet sand with 2000 paper then clear twice then buff it out. I get shiny results.

You guys have it right...

Here is an interesting article for your entertainment on how to paint a car on the cheap.

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

Thanks guys, I think the spraying is gonna be OK. I am concerned about the finish, meaning the clear coat and making it shiney. I understand that if I spray 2 coats of clear and then sand it with the 1200, then buff it, it will be shinney? Is this correct?

I did mine with spray cans. I got professional auto paint from a body & paint shop supplier that also fills spray cans. I used base coat / clear coat (aka 2K) base paint and used a single stage (aka 1K) clear. It turned out pretty good for a spray can job IMHO (and I used to have an autobody/paint shop).

Here's the link to the clear I used... http://www.u-pol.com/ Use the Clear #1 UV resistant

First of all, it's not necessary to go as high as 1200 for the primer... 800 is lots.

Secondly, make sure you use a primer that is compatible with the base color otherwise, it will orange peel on ya. Generally, a laquer based primer will work as long as you don't lay it on too heavy. Definately not an enamel based primer...no no! (unless of course you're using enamel top coats). Preferrably, use a primer surfacer first and then a primer sealer prior to the base color. Sand the primer surfacer with the 800 wet or dry sand paper, clean all surfaces with an oil & grease remover, use a tack rag to clean off any dust particles, and shoot the primer/sealer on. You don't sand that. Always wipe with a tack rag between coats starting with the wiping of the primer/sealer before the base color. When working with primer, give it lots of time to dry/cure or use a heat lamp before sanding it.

This clear I used does a pretty good job but if you do want to polish it out (I did some of mine), yes, use a 1200 or even higher wet or dry (wet of course) sandpaper prior to polishing. User a power polisher and some good polish....it comes out really good...very glossy and nary a ripple....as good as a custom paint finish you'd see in a custom bike/car show.

As for the actual spraying, you will find that anywhere from 6" to 10" is about the right distance. Any more than that and your paint will be "drying" by the time it hits the surface. Do some testing on cardboard or something. Make sure you hold the spray perpendicular to the surface as best as possible. Make sure you let the paint "set up" for 15 or more minutes between coats. If you're spraying a metallic color, as soon as you've shot your last color coat, hold the can just a bit further away and "fan spray" it. By that I mean, don't follow a "left to right" or "up and down" motion... just spray all over, going a bit faster than usual. This will even out the metallic so that you won't see those "paint passes" where the metallic tend to build in the centre of the spray.

Another tip with spray cans...try and do the spraying horizontally with the floor. Spray cans tend to lose their optimum sprayability when pointed down or at a sharp angle to the floor, especially when they are getting low on paint or propellant.

Shake the spray can lots and when you're waiting for the coats to "set up", pull the spray nozzle off and drop into a bit of lacquer thinner. This keeps the nozzle clear of any paint build up and keeps it working best.

When you're done shooting the clear, you need to leave everything to dry/cure really well before doing any polishing. I'd recommend a month during warm weather when there's lots of sun.

Finally, make sure when you do the painting that your area is warm and there isn't a lot of humidity (ie during or just after a rain storm) or that the floor of your shop isn't soaked with water. This clear product I used is very susceptible to it being too cold or too humid and it will turn "milky" if it is.

Don't be afraid to screw up... that's how ya learn. Have fun...hope some of my "experiences" are helpful. And remember, we wanna see those before and after pics!

Wow guys, what a help you have been!!!!!!

I just got the tank cover sprayed with the base coat, wow, I am very pleased at this point!!!! I started by repairing the small holes and imperfections, sanding with 400, than 600. Sprayed sandable primer and sanded that @ 800. Wow was it smoothe! I than used the techniqes that were mentioned with the "Rattle can" and sprayed 3 nice coats. I, of coaurse, can see the small imperfections, but no one else will be able to.

Now the question, should I hit it with wet 1200 before clear?????? I heard color sanding can give it that extra luster.

Again, I can not thank you guys enough for the great advice.

BTW I went with the Randya purple!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you want try, why not. Just be careful with the wet sanding.

But you got to face the Fact, if you do it there, you ought to do it everywhere.

 

Now the question, should I hit it with wet 1200 before clear?????? I heard color sanding can give it that extra luster.

 

 

You shouldn't have to wet sand the color coat before shooting with clear unless you've let it dry for a day or so. Even with that, you could get a "fine" scuff pad and lightly scuff it before clear coat. If you do wet sand the color coat, 1200 or higher wet or dry (do it wet with soapy water). Gonna be hard to get into those "nooks and crannys" tho...I use the scuff pad there.

A good idea is to shoot a couple coats of clear, let that dry good, wet sand that and shoot a final clear coat.

Then you would not sand the final clear coat?? Just start polishing??What is best Polish??

How good can a spray can paint job look? Unless you use one of those specialty cans like from Alsa. I have my reservations about how good it can look doing it this way.

How good can a spray can paint job look? Unless you use one of those specialty cans like from Alsa. I have my reservations about how good it can look doing it this way.

I can tell you from lots of experience with both spray cans and painting cars professionally... you can get a spray can paint job to look every bit as good as a professional paint job. It's a bit more difficult and involves more work but it can be done. Having said that, I wouldn't suggest you try and paint a whole car with spray cans and expect a professional quality job. Spray cans are better suited to smaller components, such as those on a motorcycle, in comparison to larger parts such as doors, hood, roof, etc on a car.

I would not; however, use spray cans in favor of a proper spray gun / compressor unless I only had a couple small pieces to paint and did not have professional automotive paint readilly available simply because you oftentimes have to purchase the automotive paint, especially the clear coat, in larger quantities such as a pint of color and a gallon of reducer for the color or a gallon of clear and a quart of hardener.

You can find automotive paint shops that fill pre-charged spray cans with professional auto paint mixed to the color chip of your choice. These generally require either clear coating or polishing afterwards. The products I used on my scoot produced a very good quality finish. I did power polish it out to get a "show quality" finish however, but it wasn't necessary to be a good looking finish.

Since doing my scoot last year (with spray cans), I've gotten a few nicks here and there and I burned a corner on the trunk when I was power polishing it. I've recently purchased a good compressor and had to refinish the hood of the car due to a couple dents. I have lots of clear and reducer left over so I'm redoing the scoot again...but this time not with spray cans. Might even do another color change.

Then you would not sand the final clear coat?? Just start polishing??What is best Polish??

It depends on how smooth the surface of the clear is. Going over it with 1200 or higher wet or dry will take down any minor ripples, bumps, or any dust particles that might have gotten into it. Use a rubber sanding block with the wet sandpaper wrapped around it.

Look at any new car.... really look close at the paint...see it at different angles and lighting conditions... you will see it is not quite as smooth as one would think. Then look at a custom "show quality" paint job.... there's a big difference. The show quality job has been wet sanded and polished out.

Use a good liquid polish... there are many brands... get one designed to use with a power polisher. If you've never used a power polisher before.... there's a bit of an "art" to using it. The main thing is not to apply too much pressure, not to allow it to stay in one spot (keep moveing it around) and be very cautious around edges.

Check this link... http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-polishing.html

Mine is done entirely out of Krylon.

A case of white primer, a case of bright yellow, a case of clearcoat.

Just make sure you spray each piece horizontally as it sits on the bike, front to back. That way if you get any runs, you can just tell people that with all the speed and power, it's hard to keep the paint from sliding off.

Mine is done entirely out of Krylon.

A case of white primer, a case of bright yellow, a case of clearcoat.

 

 

 

 

Just make sure you spray each piece horizontally as it sits on the bike, front to back. That way if you get any runs, you can just tell people that with all the speed and power, it's hard to keep the paint from sliding off.

I like that thought!!

I got some colorrite paint and I'm going to try the roller cut with mineral spirits method... If it doesn't come out shiney I'm gonna paint the whole bike Flat Black... probably John Deere Blitz Black.

I got some colorrite paint and I'm going to try the roller cut with mineral spirits method... If it doesn't come out shiney I'm gonna paint the whole bike Flat Black... probably John Deere Blitz Black.

You should use "wrinkle" paint... would make for a very unique look...

Not sure about the wrinkle.. but I think the Flat Black would really make the chrome pop.

Screw the Spray Bomb job... check this out.

The Poor Mans Paint Job

This is a method I have used to paint my entire car for under $75.00

I think it owuld work perfectly for your application scenario...

You should use "wrinkle" paint... would make for a very unique look...

Yeah your 87 is old enough to have wrinkles

.http://farm1.static.flickr.com/106/289981080_4008fa579a.jpg

Yeah your 87 is old enough to have wrinkles

 

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