Proud (I hope) owner of a HF Tag-Along

Will be putting it together this weekend. I've read of the trials and tribulations some have had with them, so I'll be paying close attention during assembly. I'd like to add the Wally World (about $35.00) led trailer taillights. I'll also be adding a 5 wire in to 4 wire harness. question is how will the bike's turn signal function react to these additions?

Time permitting, before Kreg's MD I may add these running lights.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LED-Red-boat-motorcycle-truck-trailer-RV-light-99HBR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e659df3aQQitemZ360346935098QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts

If you don't have seperate turn/brake lights you will have to have an adapter for the bike to trailer hook up. You can get it at NAPA stores for like $30. But if you are changing the lights why not amke it have seperate turn signals and brake lights? You cna't just add an adapter plug because your turn signals will not work plus am not sure what it would do to the lights on the bike.

If you don't have seperate turn/brake lights you will have to have an adapter for the bike to trailer hook up. You can get it at NAPA stores for like $30. But if you are changing the lights why not amke it have seperate turn signals and brake lights? You cna't just add an adapter plug because your turn signals will not work plus am not sure what it would do to the lights on the bike.

Well, went to NAPA and got the "Deer in the Headlights" treatment, tried Wally World and found nothing in the "Hopkins" stuff, SOooo, I guess I'll just make the trailer 5 wire. I found a 5 wire plug and some 2" square amber LEDs (for turn signals) at Wally World. Pictures as I go...

I have used both of these, and they work great

I have the wireing for the Venture side in the shop, and will add it in a bit.

Hopkins 48845 "Hoppy" Tail Light Converter 48"

http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/image.php?id=224&size=3

Hoppy 48915 Tail Light Converter (60") with a 12 inch extension.

http://images.outdoorpros.com/images/prod/5/Hopkins-48915-rw-53034-63422.jpg

Wiring for the Bike side RSV ( if needed )

Blue ------> Run

Black -----> Ground

Yellow-----> Brake

Brown -----> L Turn

Green -----> R Turn

I have used both of these, and they work great

I have the wireing for the Venture side in the shop, and will add it in a bit.

 

Hopkins 48845 "Hoppy" Tail Light Converter 48"

http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/image.php?id=224&size=3

Hoppy 48915 Tail Light Converter (60") with a 12 inch extension.

 

http://images.outdoorpros.com/images/prod/5/Hopkins-48915-rw-53034-63422.jpg

Thanks!!!

I "googled" these and found that Ace Hardware was a source. The local store was out of the Hoppy brand but had another choice, so I picked it up and got a LED trailer lighting kit from HF. (love the 20% off coupons!!!)

The lights are installed and the wheels re-greased. I'm a little concerned that the bearing retainer washer is not keyed to the axles. Only the cotter key keeps the nut from turning. The nuts were a little tighter than I would like, but if I back off one slot, the nut is loose on the cotter key. Anyone double nutted these?

Tested the lights on Wes' Blazer. Tomorrow gonna wire the converter to the bike. Looks like it will fit nicely next to the CB in the little black box under the trunk. Anyone else put it in that box?

I think putting it in the CB box will work, but make it sort of tough to get to to do any checking, if needed later on,

Making progress...

Sure is easier to add one wire, and 2 LED Brakelights.

Oh well.

Have fun!

It's done!!!

Took it for the maiden voyage this afternoon. This is only the 2nd time I've pulled a trailer, but I could not even tell it was back there. I do have some concern about the wheel bearings. I pulled it about 15 miles at around 60mph and stopped to check the wheels. the hubs were warm to the point they were uncomfortable to hold for long. As I've already mentioned the bearing retainer nuts were tighter from the factory than I would like. So I don't know if the preload is to much or if I put too much grease in the hubs. There are grease zerks on the wheels so I pumped the hubs full.

If I were to back off on the retainer nuts one notch, I wonder if the cotter key will stand the load, since the retainer washers are not keyed to the axle?

If the hubs were anything other than lukewarm to the touch, the bearings are adjusted wrong. ( too much grease did NOT cause this) On such a short pull, they should be room temp (ambient) or maybe just slightly above that.

If the hubs are getting hot on such a short test, the bearings will eventually fail on a long trip.

It sounds like you need to loosen the castlenut 1/4 or maybe 1/2 turn. ( I assume its a castlenut on there, with a cotterpin on each one)

Or you may need to use another washer to take up some slack after loosening the castlenut say, one or 2 turns.

Before you make any adjustments, with the trailer hooked up and with the hubs cool, lift the trailer and place the trailer axle on a couple of cinderblocks or milk crates or whatever you have handy. Grab the tires with your hand and give them a forceful spin. They should spin for quite a while...say a half minute or so...if they spin for 0-5 seconds and stop, they are too tight.

Just in case your not familiar with the proper way to tension that castlenut, here it is: Remove the dustcap. Torque the castlenut down with a standard box or open end wrench, by hand, to the point where the wheel will BARELY turn by hand. ( this means SNUG...dont force things and damage the bearings!) Then loosen the castlenut a half turn or so...and try to spin the wheel. Now tighten the nut down again, turn the wheel, loosen the nut, and repeat this a few more times. ( this procedure settles the bearings, and also lets you know the bearings are properly installed in the bearing seats...if you feel any 'en-eveness', replace the bearings). Now set your final adjustment on the castlenut as follows:

When you have the proper tension on the castlenuts, they should pass the spin test above, and this one also: There should be a miniscule amount of side to side play.

If you grab the tire/wheel at the top and try to move it in and out. It should have a feel of either ZERO movement, or a very SLIGHT amount of movement, not enough to SEE it moving, but maybe you can feel it or hear it make a slight, click or clunk. It takes some practice to get the feel for this. Alternate between doing the 'spin test', and then checking the amount of side-to-side freeplay.

After you get the tension correct, replace the dustcap, (use a rubber mallet) and take it for another test pull, and check the hubs after 20 minutes or so. They should be only mildly warm. On a hot day, they might be what I would call, 'lukewarm'...or roughly body temp, say, 100 degrees or so.

Assuming it passes this test, it should be ready to roll. Now when you take it on a trip, when gassing up the bike, ( right after you stop rolling) reach down and feel the hubs at every fill-up. Even with a full load and running 80 mph, they should not be above what I would call 'comfortably warm'...this should be the temp that the grease softens and keeps the bearings lubricated. And if you cant hold your hand on the hubs for at least 5 or 10 seconds, they are still adjusted to tight.

As the spindle and bearings get warmer, they also get tighter, so you want to start out with them slightly...and I mean SLIGHTLY loose...as in the test above. As the grease seals wear in and settle, you will probably see some residual grease that spins out of the hubs, this is fairly normal if you filled the hubs with a grease gun. Just wipe it off the first few times, then after awhile it should lessen to the point where you can clean the wheels and keep them fairly clean most of the time.

After pulling the trailer a few hundred miles, its a good idea to go thru the whole procedure again, or at least, CHECK to make sure the in-out sideplay and free spin are correct. If everything is good, you should be fine for a whole year of trailer pulling. Next riding season, regrease, retorque, and recheck everything...and yer good to go. If properly cared for, those bearings and hubs should last the life of the trailer. (Note: I have read about some members replacing the cheap chinese bearings with some good American made bearings...this is up to you)

Let us know how it goes!

Brian,

Thanks!!!

It is indeed a castle nut. My concern is that when it is adjusted like I'm used to adjusting the pre-load, (since the washer between the nut and the bearing is not keyed to the axle) the nut rocks back and forth against the cotter key. If for no other reason, than my peace of mind, I'm thinking double nut as well as the cotter key. For now don't remember if there are enough threads for that.

Just in case your not familiar with the proper way to tension that castlenut, here it is: Remove the dustcap. Torque the castlenut down with a standard box or open end wrench, by hand, to the point where the wheel will BARELY turn by hand.

 

Brian,

That is a great write up. I will add my 2 cents worth. (I used to be a design engineer at Timken).

When tightening the first time, rotate the tire while tightening. Rotating the tire squares up the rollers and seats them against the back rib. If you tighten them without rotating, there is a possibility of scoring the races/rollers. So, just spin the tire and tighten until it begins to bind. Then just follow Brian's procedure. Your bearing will be set correctly.

RR

Brian,

Thanks!!!

It is indeed a castle nut. My concern is that when it is adjusted like I'm used to adjusting the pre-load, (since the washer between the nut and the bearing is not keyed to the axle) the nut rocks back and forth against the cotter key. If for no other reason, than my peace of mind, I'm thinking double nut as well as the cotter key. For now don't remember if there are enough threads for that.

Ok...but say the washer WAS keyed to the axle...then wouldnt that little index tab rock back and forth in the keyway and wear out?

Its not a problem actually, there is minimal twisting pressure on the back side of the castlenut, since the outside facing of the bearing does not turn...or...its not supposed to. If it DOES, then you seized a bearing, due to inadequate maintenance. To answer your question, yes the castlenut can rock back and forth against the cotter key, but its SUPPOSED to, and the castlenut wont go anywhere, as long as that key is in place.

I doubt there is room to locknut the castlenut, unless you go with two, thinner, axle-nuts, and then there may not be room under the dustcap.

I'd suggest to not 'overthink' this simple, reliable setup....just torque it correctly and go on down the road. Everyone else does!

Brian,

 

That is a great write up. I will add my 2 cents worth. (I used to be a design engineer at Timken).

 

When tightening the first time, rotate the tire while tightening. Rotating the tire squares up the rollers and seats them against the back rib. If you tighten them without rotating, there is a possibility of scoring the races/rollers. So, just spin the tire and tighten until it begins to bind. Then just follow Brian's procedure. Your bearing will be set correctly.

 

RR

Thanks for the clarification...I do that also and just forgot to actually express it that way...but you did express it flawlessly...thanks!

Brian,

Thanks!!!

It is indeed a castle nut. My concern is that when it is adjusted like I'm used to adjusting the pre-load, (since the washer between the nut and the bearing is not keyed to the axle) the nut rocks back and forth against the cotter key. If for no other reason, than my peace of mind, I'm thinking double nut as well as the cotter key. For now don't remember if there are enough threads for that.

Do not use a double nut. It will take the clearance out of the bearings that you just set up. They will be too tight.

Just follow Brian's procedure and you will be fine.

RR

You should be able to find an sloted (key) axel washer that will fit you axel and bearings at Napa or Carquest in their help line of axel washers and nuts.

Will be putting it together this weekend. I've read of the trials and tribulations some have had with them, so I'll be paying close attention during assembly. I'd like to add the Wally World (about $35.00) led trailer taillights. I'll also be adding a 5 wire in to 4 wire harness. question is how will the bike's turn signal function react to these additions?

 

Time permitting, before Kreg's MD I may add these running lights.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LED-Red-boat-motorcycle-truck-trailer-RV-light-99HBR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e659df3aQQitemZ360346935098QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts

You should be able to find an sloted (key) axel washer that will fit you axel and bearings at Napa or Carquest in their help line of axel washers and nuts.

Problem is there is no key slot in the axle...

When I did mine last summer the nuts were way to tight and little to no grease in the bearings. So I cleaned them and repacked them and put it back together the correct way.

Here is a picture of it.

Richie R